He had already been to Pitti Uomo, but Sir Paul Smith, Knight awarded by Elizabeth II, an absolutely ironic and easy-going man, at almost 80 years old, decided to return to Florence to present his light-hearted spring/summer 2025 collection, because, there he says enthusiastically «I was looking forward to doing things on an intimate, more personal scale and, therefore, coming back here seemed like the right move». He himself, at Villa Favard, in the center of the Tuscan capital, decided to show a series of looks inspired by the Sixties.
To do this he welcomed his selected guests in a bar, to be precise the Bar Paul, complete with tables, cups, sachets of sugar, matchboxes and napkins with themed logos. «Open all night, these cafés were a place where people went after the other places closed and attracted a bohemian clientele of musicians, artists and designers». In short, a promise kept by the designer, who told us that he always focuses on “quality, craftsmanship and… the unexpected!”.
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THE LOOKS
The looks are the consequence of the place, in some way: the ties are loose, the work jackets alternate with deconstructed blazers, there are splashes of color on the shirts and the classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics are reinvented, although maintaining a fascinating tactile approach to tailoring. Paul Smith explained each outfit and, judging by his effervescence in doing so, you’d be hard-pressed to believe that he had no intention of designing clothes. «When I was younger I was determined to become a professional cyclist – he confided to us – but at the age of 18 I had an accident that left me in hospital for six months. After that, I started hanging out with the kids at the local art school and that’s how I was introduced to the creative scene, and I knew I wanted to be a part of it! Shortly after I met my now wife Pauline, she taught me everything I know about pattern cutting and tailoring. I owe everything to her.” Another fixed point in the life of the man who has always been considered “the good guy” of fashion is his lifelong companion. «It’s a privilege that they see me as a nice guy. Maybe because I love what I do, I have a lot of passion and my dream is to enjoy every day. And, I’ll tell you a secret: this has become reality some time ago.”
CONFIDENCE
And just enjoying every moment he found himself experiencing two very important ones within just a few hours. On the same day, 24 November 2000, he was made a Knight, at 11am, «and at 4pm I got married to Pauline: she immediately became Lady. It’s an immense honor, but to the people around me I’m still just Paul.” Free, in short, to be what he wants and also independent, after over 50 years in the sector: “I’m very proud of it, I want the air to always be pleasant and light here.” But remaining true to themselves. Even in the collection just presented, in fact, the designer is keen to underline that it is important to reinvent what you do, adding new things and expanding: «It’s a challenge. In my opinion, longevity is extremely underrated in this industry. I am aware that I have never been number one, but so much the better, because once you get to the top you can only go down.” Perhaps this is also why he says that he would never give up a suit and that he wears one every day, because it is practical and comfortable. And then there is the colour, the one that Sir Paul never forgets: «The Signature Stripe – for which the designer is recognizable worldwide – was born by chance. The first designs were made with a piece of card and a selection of yarn to construct a series of stripes. They have become so popular that we have kept them in our collections for many years to come. I use color as a punctuation mark. My garment designs are often described as classic and timeless, but adding a touch of panache really allows me to bring in a bit of playfulness.”
THE DAIR
The one that is present in his office and which he has partially replicated in Florence. His creative lair, in fact, is full of strange objects received from many people from all over the world. «I’m so grateful for this. And most don’t ask me for anything in return, but I make sure that at least everyone receives a thank you note from me.” Because Paul Smith is a gentleman from another era, who curiously explores the liveliness of today.
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