Of course the club colors are the same, but going from supporting the home team (Pisa) to supporting Atalanta is incredible. Especially if the protagonist of the story, Paccì (born Alberto Gennai), is not limited to his passion for the living room but has been following the Goddess everywhere for about twenty years, complete with a season ticket to home championship matches (each time 700 kilometers between round trip). In everyday life, Paccì is an innkeeper, owner of the trattoria of the same name in the central street of the small village of Buti, between the provinces of Pisa and Lucca. Places of great gastronomic tradition, of honest, tasty cuisine, of strict territorial observance. Paccì, son of restaurateurs, interprets it without digressions. Highlights are the ragù, cooked for a long time in broth after frying it in “good” oil (Buti is the city of oil). Cinta Senese ragù, or duck or wild boar ragù when hunted locally, is used to season fresh pasta: stringozzi (spaghettoni with a square section) or macaroni (foiade for us). Also noteworthy is the butese tripe, dry, without vegetables, “colored” by tomato paste. After so many first courses, the second courses take center stage: try the local recipe for rabbit prepared in rosticiana with sausage. Some good Tuscan wines in the cellar. Popular prices, not exactly as Paccì says – “with what you spend to sit in the restaurant you can eat here” – but certainly incomparable (eating everything, and a lot, no more than 35 euros excluding wines). Be careful of closures coinciding with the Goddess’ performances: the shutter remains lowered.
Trattoria Paccì, Via Roma 5 in Buti (Pisa), telephone: 0587.477846 – 320.0371577. Closed on Wednesdays and for lunch on weekdays
Prices: starters 5/11 euros; first 10.50/12; seconds 1pm/4.50pm; sweets 3/5; cover charge 2.50
Opinion *
Price/quality ratio ***
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