A relay between Made in Italy entrepreneurs and luxury designers which is unique in the global panorama and highlights how craftsmanship and creativity go hand in hand
“Together with Pitti we are a unique men’s fashion week in the world“. As Carlo Capasa, president of National Chamber of Italian Fashion, defines the week that has just begun. Yes why from 11 to 14 June at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence hosts the 106th edition of Pitti Uomo who will then pass the baton to Milan Fashion Weekwith 84 appointments scheduled from 14th to 17th. A relay between Made in Italy entrepreneurs and luxury designers which is unique in the global panorama and highlights how craftsmanship and creativity go hand in hand. He is also convinced of it Antonio De MatteisCEO of Kiton and president of Pitti Immagine: “Pitti Uomo, together with the Milan Fashion Week fashion shows, confirms itself as the most important men’s fashion week in the world“. Innovation with attention to tradition, care, research and measure are the key elements of Italian tailoring that the whole world looks to as a bastion of elegance, so much so that, despite global uncertainties, Italian men’s fashion continues to prosper, driven mainly by exports: the new data from Sistema Moda Italia attests an increase of +4.7% for the turnover of Italian menswear in 2023, which reaches 11.9 billion euros thus covering 18.5% of the Italian textile-clothing supply chain. Exports instead closed at 9.5 billion eurosfigures that give those of women’s clothing a run for their money.
Pitti Uomo: a thermometer for industry
Pitti Uomo continues to be a significant indicator of market trends, allowing industry operators to form their expectations for the months ahead and direct their business strategies. On the other hand, there is no other fair in which a company that perhaps has a turnover of a few million has the opportunity to meet 10/12 thousand buyers from all over the world. “Lemon” is the theme of this edition which promises to be full of news and unmissable events: at the Fortezza da Basso the brands that will present the spring-summer collections are 790, 43% from abroad, but there are also equally important fashion shows to enliven the three days. It starts on the evening of June 11th with the fashion show event Paul Smith, British designer returning to Pitti Uomo after over 30 years: “I was among the first designers invited to Pitti, in 1993, and I have always considered it a wonderful opportunity to highlight some of the most beautiful menswear in the world , in a very concrete way. I look forward to presenting my collection in a more intimate setting, and this return to Florence seems like the right opportunity to do so,” said Smith. Another big name of this edition is Marine Serre, guest designer of this edition, who will bring his menswear to Pitti Uomo for the first time with a fashion show event scheduled for Wednesday 12 June. Serre, born in 1991, is one of the most interesting voices in contemporary fashion, known for her commitment to sustainability and for her unique style that mixes French couture and sportswear. Debut also for the French designer Pierre-Louis Mascia, who will present and close the event on Thursday 13th with his show. Of note, then, the return of Missoni, who chooses the Fortezza to present his new men’s collection with a tribute to Ottavio Missoni.
The events of Milan Fashion Week
And there is also great excitement for Milan Fashion Week. From Friday to Monday they are on the calendar 84 appointments between fashion shows, presentations and events: a number that has never been so high in recent years. Among the great returns, the most awaited is certainly the Moschino fashion showwhich will open the dance on Friday 14 June with its first men’s collection designed by the new creative director Adrian Appiolaza. Another important return is that of Magliano, who returns to Milan after having shown in Florence last winter. The presence of also confirmed JW Anderson, which has a fashion show and after party planned. Among the debuts, those of Martine Rose, the brand of the English designer who has always shown in London, and Dunhill, under the creative direction of Simon Holloway, are worth mentioning. Among the events not to be missed, the celebration of 90 years of Canals And the 15th anniversary of MSGM, which will celebrate with a co-ed fashion show.
Men’s Fashion data
Second Italian Fashion Systemexports in the men’s fashion sector increased by 6.6% in 2023, exceeding 8.8 billion euros. Both EU and non-EU markets contributed to this growth, with the former increasing by 7.2% and the latter by 6%. The main destination for Italian men’s fashion exports was France, which saw an increase of 16.8%, followed by Germany and the United States, which grew by 0.4% and 3.0% respectively. Demand from China increased by 13.9%, reaching 647 million euros. Other notable increases were recorded in South Korea (18.1%), Japan (19.8%), Poland (21.2%), Russia (44%), Austria (0.7%) and the United Arab Emirates (45.3%). On the contrary, imports decreased by 2.3%, totaling around 5.6 billion euros. Domestic sales of men’s fashion showed a modest 0.4% increase from a year earlier, with chain stores dominating the market.
