In Italy there are more than 120 thousand pizzerias. Of these, a very small percentage is led by a woman, although at the beginning of the legend of the birth of the most famous of pizzas, the Margherita, there seems to be a woman. In this small nucleus, destined to expand when the last gender taboos fall, there are total excellences. One of these lives and works a few kilometers from the center of Verona. Because Petra Antolini, master pizza chef and passionate hostess of her Settimo Cielo, is truly an excellence. Human and professional.
Entering his premises in Pescantina it’s like immersing yourself in his world, among sculptures of colored cows, references to the women who worked in white art hanging on the walls next to pills of art history – this too, often, female -. The first of her professional excellences is immediately noticeable: her hospitality. The material declination of an inclination of the person himself, which turns into a modern, but never cold, pizzeria, welcoming to families (downstairs there is an entire room where children can play within reach of their parents, with dedicated tables), with celiacs (complete with certification), with simple enthusiasts. Excellent dining room service, as well as the wine and spirits list, with the possibility of ordering a few simple drinks at the table, Gin Tonic first and foremost (served really well, which is not usual).
For those who want to approach his work with the curiosity of a tonda enthusiast, you must arrive aware that you are dealing with someone who loves to play with dough. And who is a perfectionist every time she does it. Starting with her fried pizzas, a must in her history, which she offers in two versions. We begin with the classics, among which the writer recommends the Superbia (14 euros whole, 10 half) with San Marzano, spicy capocollo and ‘Nduja; all on her patented dough. Dry, delicious, it is a trailblazer, which speaks of her attention to raw materials. The cured meats, and she will be happy to tell you, are one of the spearheads of her research, all linked to small artisans in the territories most suited to production. The same story, among the innovative double-cooked fried pizzas, we find it in the Romeo (20/15), with fresh stracciatella from Puglia and Romeo (culatello aged in Recioto and Amarone). For those looking for fresher or more unusual flavours, here is the Pere e cacio (13/10) with San Marzano DOP, cheese cream, pears and grated lemon.
We could go on much longer, but there are many pizzas on offer and for a tasting that includes almost all of them, you need to continue without dwelling too much on a single specialty. Among the contemporary ones, a triptych dedicated to the typical flavors of Roman first courses stands out: Cacio e pepe, Gricia and an excellent Amatriciana (14), with Petra dough, San Marzano tomato, Tropea onion, crunchy bacon, pecorino romano cheese and pepper. Very delicious, suitable both for solitary consumption and for a place of honor in a tasting menu. In the second case, as a follow-up we could suggest the Leone (15) with fior di latte, Tropea onion, sweet gorgonzola from Lessinia and Deavina (coppa aged in Amarone). His cured meats again. One more gem.
For lovers of classic pizzas, there is a section of the menu entirely dedicated to it. But if you still want to look beyond your comfort zone, you can go straight and confidently through the daisy variations. The Cosacca al monte (10) with fior di latte, San Marzano tomato, old Monte Veronese and leaf basil is one of the most convincing variations on the theme of the classic Neapolitan in recent years. As well as the Margherita Primo Sale (10): tomato “come na volta” with an alpine flavour, sweet but strong, primo sale and rosemary for a rustic but not too rustic final result. Which is a combo of words that could summarize the whole Settimo Cielo experience in a naïve way.
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