Talking about a return of vermouth is almost an understatement. We are witnessing a triumph, a (re)discovery, a rebirth. An epochal leap compared to vermuttino which Professor Baudino of Margherita Oggero’s detective stories liked and generations of Piedmontese who they considered it almost an elixir of life, recommended after lunch. Today vermouth (or vermouth/German vermouth, you name it) is experiencing a new youth and is the king of creative mixology, much loved by young people, in short, “it’s trendy”.
From Wermut to Vermouth
The story is known: a plaque in Piazza Castello in Turinon the corner with via Viotti, celebrates Antonio Benedetto Carpano who in 1786 in his shop near the Royal Palace invented that special white wine with spices and aromatic plants, first of all mugwort, in German Wermut. Since then, more than two centuries have passed, production companies have been born and disappeared, and vermouth has gradually consolidated its image linked to Piedmont and above all to Turin. In the 19th century, producers multiplied rapidly and vermouth also became famous abroad in its two white and red variants: Martini with his partner Rossithe pharmacist and winemaker Carlo Ganciathe heirs Cinzanoand then Anselmo, Bosca, Ballor, Mulassano, Cora, Giovanni Chazalettes with the vermouth dedicated to Queen Margherita, loved by ladies (and now reborn, together with others, including the Carpano Antica Formula of 1786, numbered edition).
Vermouth: the data and the Turin Consortium
Today the data speaks clearly: five million bottles produced, an export to more than 80 countriesgrowing consumption: vermouth is increasingly trendy, in Italy and around the world. Protected by a mark of origin as Vermouth of Turin IGP, the only vermouth in the world to have this recognition according to a precise specification: it must be made with Italian wines and flavored with Piedmontese absinthe, medicinal herbs and exotic spices. It is classified based on the color (White, Amber, Rosé or Red) and the quantity of sugar used in its preparation. The specification also provides for type Vermouth di Torino Superiore which refers to products with an alcoholic strength of no less than 17% vol., made with at least 50% Piedmontese wines and flavored with herbs grown or harvested in Piedmont.
The Bava family, owners of the historic Cocchi brand
Ancient labels and modern producers
The Turin Vermouth Consortium, which represents almost the entire Denomination, was established in 2019 to protect, promote and enhance the Vermouth di Torino PGI. It currently includes 41 companies that produce and distribute Turin Vermouth worldwide. Scrolling through the list is a journey through time but also into the contemporary world, confirming the new direction of vermouth. Names like Antica Distilleria Quaglia, Berto, Bosca, Bordiga, Giulio Cocchi, Gran Torino 1861, Mancino, Antonio Parigi, Peliti’s, Toso, Tosti1820, Vergnano, Vermouth Strucchito name just a few.
The Consortium is chaired by Roberto Bava Of Cocchi, which strongly desired it and announces a «great 2024 for the Vermouth of Turin, to make the concept of uniqueness and value that distinguishes it ever stronger». We heard it on our way back from Colorado, just finished it Slow Wine Tour USAand from Brussels, where for 8 hours it supported, together with Amalfi lemon and Greek olives, a reporting-verification on the PGI of Vermouth.
«The American tour, which touched Washington, New York, Austin, Denver and San Francisco, was a great success, especially in New York, but also in Colorado, California… Vermouth di Torino is truly known and appreciated everywhere and it is also a personal success for Cocchi, considered number 1 in the world, we are very proud of it – says Bava – As a Consortium, which has doubled its members since its foundation, we continue to promote it. At the end of June there will be the now classic “Vermouth di Torino Week“, the international Vermouth week of Turin, now in its third edition, which will have Turin as its beating heart, but will see events organized simultaneously in Italy, Europe and the world: thematic meetings, insights into its history, the ritual of the aperitif in many places, with pure vermouth, mixed, and the right combinations. Also in June, the “General States of the Vermouth of Turin“, to take stock of the most important aspects of the development of vermouth at an international level and for the appointment of the new “Certified Ambassadors” who will make our vermouth known throughout the world».
In a word, it really is always time for Vermouth di Torino – a trademark registered by the Consortium – which underlines it the convivial value. Meanwhile, in February, the first Vermouth Salonand it was another great success with the public, many under 30, confirming the new direction of “Carpano’s invention”.
Vermouth, stories & discoveries
There are many stories of new or little-known vermouths being reborn. As Doragrossaa new Piedmontese label which is a tribute to the ancient name of via Garibaldi, once the center of the city’s liquor industry. Vermouth Gran Torino 1861created in the year of the Unification of Italy by the entrepreneur Riccardo Ferrero and immediately became the official supplier of the House of Savoy. Left-handed which aims for innovation, with vermouth like the Kopiwith Indonesian coffee extract, the Sakurawith Kyoto cherry blossoms and Tuscan violet petals, or the Marinethe first refined underwater at 52 meters deep in the waters of Portofino. Don Guglielmo 1918the new vermouth produced in Caluso in the Gnavi wineryactive since the end of the 19th century, and created by Giorgio Gnavi to remember the brutal crime for money of his ancestor Don Gugliemo: a vermouth from Erbaluce, straw yellow color and hints of citrus fruits and spices. And finally the brand new No. Aured Turin vermouth produced in Castiglione Tinella by Simone Cerrutifourth generation of a family of winemakers who resumed the business in 2014.
