The two competition legends Schubert and Garnbret win gold in Innsbruck

At the IFSC Lead World Cup in Innsbruck, Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret are on the top step of the podium. In a thrilling final, the two veterans prevailed over their fellow competitors.

The final results of the Lead World Cup Innsbruck are not particularly surprising in themselves: the men win Jakob Schubert before Alex Megos, Toby Robert. The women win Janja Garnbret before Ai Mori, Chaehyun Seo. Yet the two finals were hard to beat in terms of excitement.

Local hero Jakob Schubert is happy with Alex Megos. Image: Lena Drapella

Climbing here at home is always special, and this route today was really special because it was a really crazy battle in the upper half.

Jacob Schubert

Jakob Schubert: Delivered under pressure

In the men’s race, Tomoa Narasaki opened the final, but fell relatively early (28+). However, it quickly became clear that the passage from which he was thrown out was anything but easy. Jonas Utelli, who contested his first World Cup final in Innsbruck, also made little progress (29). Likewise the Japanese specialist Taisei Homma (29).

The applause from the 3000 spectators was even greater when Alex Megos seemingly effortlessly stepped onto the finish line and set the benchmark that had to be beaten with 42+. England’s Toby Roberts, known for his incredible bite and almost limitless stamina, came very close. He flew away at 41+.

He knew that at 42+ he had made a good impression with golden potential: Alex Megos. Image: Lena Drapella

Now only Jakob Schubert could challenge the German for the gold medal. And once again the Austrian got the point right. Cheered by the home crowd, he fought against the pump, surpassed Megos’ record and only fell to 45. The 33-year-old wins his 21st World Cup gold medal as a star in Innsbruck.

It was incredibly strong when I made that move and I knew right away that that was probably the win.

Jacob Schubert

Jakob Schubert can celebrate once again at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Innsbruck: he has already won the 21st gold medal of his long competitive career in this discipline. Image: Lena Drapella

Innsbruck 2024 IFSC Men’s Lead World Cup Results

  1. Jacob Schubert (45)
  2. Alex Megos (42+)
  3. Toby Roberts (41+)
  4. Colin Duffy (40+)
  5. Shuta Tanaka (34+)
  6. Taisei Homma (29)
  7. Jonas Utelli (29)
  8. Tomoa Narasaki (28+)
Maximum tension in the women’s final: Janja Garnbret and Chaehyun Seo fall into each other’s arms. Image: Lena Drapella

The decision comes right at the end

As with the men, the route construction team also managed to create a lead route for the women which, due to its difficulty, provided the necessary selection, was varied to climb and offered the public a beautiful show.

The crux of the route turned out to be the jump between holds 26 and 28. This dynamo was the final destination for five finalists: Yuetong Gzhang, Mattea Pötzi, Anastasia Sanders, Aleksandra Totkova and Jessica Pilz.

Chaehyun Seo was the first athlete to break the spot. At 36 years old, he set a new record that had to be broken.

Ai Mori uses his incredible mobility immediately after the jump. Image: Lena Drapella

Ai Mori hesitated at the key moment like many athletes before her. However, the Japanese woman found a workable solution by jumping onto the first of the two handles of the launch target with both hands. Elated by this provisional success, she quickly climbed the rest of the route and was the first athlete in the final to reach the summit.

Now only one athlete can dethrone her: Janja Garnbret. Like Schubert with the men, the Slovenian is also known for being able to score points. That is what she did, but not without having to fight hard.

Every single victory means a lot to me. I don’t take anything for granted, I’m always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every time

Janja Garnbret

She shook a lot and took a long time in the upper section, just before the top, to recover and reposition her feet for the last hard move. In the last seconds of the time limit, she hooked the deflector and secured another World Cup victory.

Janja Garnbret climbs to the top step of the podium for the second time after the gold medal in bouldering in Innsbruck. Image: Lena Drapella

That was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I’ll go home, rest a bit and then train until Paris 2024!

Janja Garnbret

IFSC Innsbruck 2024 Lead Women’s World Cup Results

  1. Janja Garnbret (in alto)
  2. Ai Mori (top)
  3. Chaehyun Seo (36)
  4. Jessica Mushroom (22+)
  5. Aleksandra Totkova (22+)
  6. Anastasia Sanders (22+)
  7. Mattea Pötzi (22+)
  8. Yuetong Zhang (21+)

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Credits: cover image Lena Drapella

 
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