Just two months after his appointment as creative director, Alexander Michele presents his first collection for Valentine. It’s called “Avant le Débuts”, it’s Resort 2025 and it’s in all respects a coup de theatre. An unexpected debut that arrives during the last act of Milan Fashion Week and, coincidentally, on the very day of Gucci (which presents the SS 2025 Uomo on June 17), his old brand.
Rome that looks to young people
Michele anticipated in a call with sector publications (such as Bof, Vogue and WWD) that the source of inspiration is the white fashion show from 1968. The one that anticipated red, which later became iconic. Light, draped dresses, in shades ranging from optical white to sand, passing through ivory and beige. A revolution compared to the fashion of the 60s, which favored geometric shapes and bright colours. In recent days, a fringe of critics had gone so far as to predict an all-round success for Valentino in line with the past. And instead with Resort 2025 Alessandro Michele has shocked again, respecting his creative nature and not pandering to the expectations of the fashion system. An opulent, abundant collection, sumptuouswhich looks at the codes of the brand but not in a didactic way, which looks at the eccentricity of Rome in the 70s and its multitude of references, but which courts a new generation of consumers.
Marketing or am I awake?
A new generation, because this is one of Valentino’s objectives: to get closer to young people. However, Valentino’s DNA is evident in the 170 looks of the collection. But Alessandro Michele’s style is also recognizable in the use of velvet, fur, lace, prints and even a certain decorativism. A shock therapy that arrives on the day of Gucci, when the “heir” Saturday De Sarno presents the men’s collection in Milan. Coincidences? What is certain is that this move brings Valentino back to the center of the debate, especially among social media users, who are going wild with memes and gifs (and the game is always the same: “As long as it’s talked about”). Michele’s first collection for Valentino might look like it too a final farewell (nostalgic) to Gucci and a break with the past, awaiting the debut in September. All that remains to be understood is Michele’s weight on Valentino’s finances. But that’s another story. (A.D)
In photos (from BoF) some looks from Resort 2025
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