We stayed by Uliassi on the very day of the 50 Best awards ceremony in Las Vegas, the ranking of the best (or with the best pr?) restaurants in the world where the restaurant Senigallia this year it placed 50th. We expected not to find him, Mauro Uliassitaking into account that many of his fellow chefs were present at the Oscar of catering, instead there he was, greeting all the guests present, so many of them. The place was full. And asking the reason for his presence, the answer was natural: «In Nevada there is “sonship”, I’m here because it will be a pretty tough week». An answer that surprised us. He shouldn’t have surprised us, we know, just as his hypothetical absence shouldn’t have changed our perception of the lunch, yet we’re not so sure he wouldn’t have done it. But this is another matter.
Uliassi. Lab 2024
How is the new Lab? Courageous, centered, conceptual and at the same time concrete, where temperatures play a fundamental role, where new life and new light are given to the so-called “sea and mountain cuisine”. A tasting of 10 courses (plus the inevitable hazelnut and foie gras wafer and small pastries) for 260 euros always attentive to the “musicality” of dishes that complement each other in a journey, the Lab precisely, the result of a research activity detached from the daily life of the restaurant and which takes place during the seasonal closure. An experience that we recommend having, just as we recommend those who have never been here to opt for the classic menu, again at 260 euros.
Uliassi says: «We build dishes by focusing on how our senses react at the table. The sight is the first thing that strikes us when the dish arrives, it concerns the type of plating, whether it is layered or open, the shape of the food, its chromatic harmonies. Smell is very important because it makes a dish not only good, but also exciting. Hearing is the sound that food makes when we chew it, its musicality. Taste is the balance of the 4 basic flavours: sweet and salty are those on which the easiest structure of taste is based, they are the simplest to perceive and love, acid has the cleaning function, while acid ‘bitter that of making you salivate and that is to continue wanting to eat.’ Finally, touch: «It is not just what you touch, but it is also the perception you have of food through your mouth, teeth, tongue, chewing. The perception of consistencies, textures and temperatures.”
Mandarin, tuna belly and timiz oil
The latter concept is expressed to perfection in the tuna belly and timiz oil, a pepper with smoky notes reminiscent of resin. A cold dish and at the same time warm on the palate, thanks to the generous quantity of fat between the belly and the oil, which melts but requires chewing. Before approaching the fish, they recommend starting with the mandarin sorbet (in the teaspoon placed on top of the belly) to prepare and reset the palate. Valuable advice.
Cold lemon and strawberry soup
Lemon soup
Followed by a cold soup of lemons, in thin, tough slices, and strawberries. Where cold and acid counterbalance the next dish: snails, crispigni (wild grass) and earthy moss in the form of airy foam on begonia leaves. One word: earth. Three words to express the feeling felt: here and now. A dish that amazes, despite the snails are always present in Uliassi’s path. Even though they are repeated, they convey a nice surprise effect.
Peppers, almonds and vanilla
After the bitterness it is time for sweetness with peppers, almonds and vanilla. A combination that we have already experienced, here emphasized by the cruschi peppers, the dried cucunci and the cutting of the almonds (in slivers) which “forces” chewing. Hence the musicality. Hence the clear sensation that the diner is an active part of the meal.
Fried frogs, estragon, grapefruit and orange foam
A sensation that we also have very clear in the next two dishes: Fried frogs, estragon, grapefruit and orange foam and Senigalliese-style quail Saltimbocca. Two dishes that draw on Marche traditions, both “composable” and usable as the diner wishes. The first pushes the citric notes, the second (brought to the table in a Staub pot) more umami, with the touch of wasabina mustard that recalls a second bite.
Sheep’s kidney, very cold prawn and nutmeg
And then a dish (the only one also present in the 2023 Lab) which on the ear could strike fear into the ears of the unaccustomed – sheep’s kidney, very cold prawn and nutmeg – but which on the palate is balanced thanks to the excesses: the frozen temperature of the prawns it dilutes the ammonia notes of the kidney (notes which at the same time blend perfectly with the seafood) and the nutmeg to emphasize everything.
Tagliatella with partridge ragù and black truffle
The savory sequence concludes Tagliatella with partridge ragù and black truffle. The least “conceptual” dish and one of pure enjoyment. So good. We will return to the fact that more and more chefs conclude the meal with (dry) pasta.
Almond ice cream, almonds, coffee and cherries
This year we were also won over by the desserts, created by the talented Mattia Casabianca. Not that in past years they weren’t good, on the contrary, but in Lab 2024 they are in perfect coherence with everything else. An ode therefore to the Apricot Granita with apricots and saffron and the Almond Ice Cream, almonds, coffee and cherries. Furthermore, beautiful to look at.
