The Farnesian Aviaries on the Palatine host the exhibition “Rara Avis. Fashion in flight at the Farnesian Aviaries”edited by Sofia Gnoliorganized and promoted by Colosseum Archaeological Parkaimed at exploring the fascinating connection between the world of fashion and theornithology. This exhibition highlights how fashion design has been inspired by shapes, colors and structures of the avian world, creating a unique dialogue betweenelegance of nature And human ingenuity. The exhibition layout allows visitors to admire clothes and accessories that recall the features of birds, paying homage to natural beauty and stylistic creativity. Furthermore, the choice of the Aviaries as the venue for the exhibition underlines the historical link And cultural between the place and the topic discussed, offering aimmersive experience in one of the most evocative corners of Rome.
Giovanni Gastel, Leus in the form of a swan and Leda, 1990/2017, Milan, Courtesy of Archivio Giovanni Gastel.
The first section of the exhibition, “Myth”explores the relationship between fashion hey ancient myths, presenting clothes that recall mythological figures and divine symbols. In this aviary you can find: the tribute to Giovanni Gastel and his shot “Zeus in the form of a swan and Leda” (1990), where the model wore a black fourreau, made by Marcel Rochas in 1934 and adorned with a large white seagull with outstretched wings on the bodice, a symbol of audacity and aspiration; the black swan dress by Alexander McQueenwith goose feather bustier designed for the Haute Couture of Givenchy F/W 1997 inspired by the murky Odile by “Swan Lake” by Tchaikovsky; a reinterpretation of the swan dress by Maria Grazia Chiuri For Dior from the Cruise 2022 collection; the dress created by Donatella Versace for Katy Perry at the 2018 Metropolitan Museum Gala; and finally the non-violent silk dress by Tiziano Guardini “Vittoria del hummingbird” dedicated to sustainability.
From left Alexander McQueen for Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 1997 and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s dress for Dior Cruise 2022.
From the left Tiziano Guardini for Rara Avis, 2024, The Victory of the Hummingbird, Metallic dress entirely covered with pleated feathers of non-violent silk, Courtesy of Tiziano Guardini. Atelier Versace by Donatella Versace for Katy Perry, Met Gala, New York, 2018, Archangel Gabriel, Embroidered metal mesh minidress with feather wings, Courtesy of Versace.
“The WINGS, unREAL, real” is the section dedicated to Anna Piaggi, who, with his eccentricity and non-conformist vision, has left an indelible mark on contemporary fashion. As a journalist and pioneer of vintage, she was able to influence trends with a lightness that hid a profound creativity. Her hats and cage handbags Elsa Schiaparelli And Philip Treacy, inspired by the animal and ornithological world, they are a tribute to his winged imagination and his visionary taste.
In the aviary of “Kaleidoscopic visions” instead they are present: the dress of Roberto Capucci, created in 1983 and inspired by a bird seen in South Africa; the parrot bolero from the first Haute Couture show Jean-Paul Gaultier F/W 1997; the iconic dress created by Thierry Mugler for S/S 1997; the organza dress, embroidered with rooster and pheasant feathers Dolce&Gabbana; Florence Welch’s look at the 2019 MET Gala signed Gucci with 3D crystal embroidery; the dress of Prada with peacock feathers for S/S 2005; and finally the F/W 2019-2020 creation of Iris van Herpencapable of reproducing the movement of the feathers of birds in flight.
From left Jean-Paul Gautier, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1997, Bolero in multicolored feathers and crepe jumpsuit, Courtesy of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Thierry Mugler, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1997, Collection Les Insectes, Velvet sheath dress with multicolored feather wings, Courtesy of Mugler Archives. Roberto Capucci, Haute Couture 1982, Georgette dress with wings embroidered in taffeta and organza, Donation of the duchess Nicoletta Maresca di Serracapriola, Courtesy of Fondazione Roberto Capucci.
Thierry Mugler, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1997
From left Gucci, for Florence Welch Met Gala, New York, 2019, Lace dress with floral lure embroidery, corset, ribbon and cape with wing appliqués decorated with crystals, pearls, scoops and satin lining, Courtesy of Archivio Gucci. Dolce&Gabbana Alta Moda, Florence 2020 (Collection), Organza corset dress entirely embroidered with rooster and pheasant feathers, Courtesy of Dolce&Gabbana.
From left Iris Van Herpen, Haute Couture, Fall-Winter 2019-2020, Collection Hypnosis Omniverse Dress, Laser-cut mylar, metal, tulle and silk dress with 3D processing, Provenance: Iris Van Herpen. Prada, Spring-Summer 2005, Silk faille dress with multicolor inlay, Courtesy of Archivio Prada.
“The projections of the imagination of the most visionary stylists in a poetic comparison between the human and animal worlds reflect man’s relationship with nature. And they tell of beauty, constraint and freedom, or they cross over into the territory of fear.”
Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri, hat by Stephen Jones, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017, Collection Souvenir de Printemps, Headdress with butterfly and feather bird, tulle dragonfly, ceramic ladybug and embroidered spider, Courtesy of Dior Héritage collection, Paris .
You can view the exhibition, open until 21 July 2024, only and exclusively by paying the 18 euro ticket to access the Colosseum Archaeological Park. It is NOT free entry.
ALESSIA DI DOMENICO
Ph: Alessia Di Domenico
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