“There is a lack of big events and after-dinner entertainment.” The black winter in the center of Rome

«This winter – I am referring to the months of November, January, February and March. Luckily we are starting again in April – we have invoiced 30% less compared to last year. A year that went very well, 2023 was the first real year post Covid In my opinion”. Talking is Alessandro Pipero, a famous restaurateur in the city and in Italy, who opened his restaurant in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. «As I always say, Rome is beautiful, but Milan is better. Let me explain: millions of tourists arrive in Rome interested in museum centers and Roman cuisine, it is clear that the fine dining suffers. Otherwise, Milan can count on a circle of business men and women who frequent and seek out gourmet restaurants. Fine dining in Rome is a tough nut to crack, for all the work and investments we continue to make, from hiring qualified staff to renovation works, the capital doesn’t give back enough.”

The hypothetical causes? “There are many, from the lack of services – in Rome there are no taxis and there are no means of transport either, and then you can’t get around on foot, as could happen in Milan – to the general lack of attractiveness.”

Rome lacks big events

Thesis endorsed by Anthony Genovese (Il Pagliaccio: 20 years, three Forchette and two Michelin Stars): «Rome lacks big events. When the Ryder Cup took place the city was full of people, and we worked well.” «Just as you work well during tennis internationals or rugby matches», he adds Giulio Terrinoni of Per Me – Giulio Terrinoni, a few steps from The clown.

«In general, there is a lack of events related to culture, fashion and sport. Why should people come to Rome rather than Tokyo, Dubai, London, Paris or even Milan? Speaking with a friend”, adds Terrinoni, “we compared Rome to a large circus, where there is a convoy of restaurants fine dining – can we say that the city is in a good position from this point of view? There’s something for all tastes and most of the colleagues work very well – now the convoy of big hotels is arriving, what’s missing is the convoy of post-dinner entertainment. Another question I ask you: where does a customer who has finished dinner go?”. Indeed, especially the center of Rome, suffers from the lack of virtuous night entertainment, be it a nice cocktail bar where you can go for a drink in peace (excluding the usual suspects, from the Jerry Thomas Speakeasy, to Veleno, to Drink Kong, which however to reach it you have to take a taxi) or a place with live music.

In Rome tourists want Roman cuisine

Now, a common misfortune is not always half a joy but it is sacrosanct to think that if things went “badly” for all colleagues it means that the individual is not to blame. It is the reflection of Antonella Mascolo and Adriano Magnoli of the Verve restaurant housed inside the Dom Hotel on via Giulia. Less well known than the aforementioned colleagues but with them they share the desire to practice and offer a non-traditional cuisine, not typically Roman in short. «It has happened – they candidly admit – that someone asked us for a carbonara or even a pizza, it happens especially with foreigners, especially those who come from the hotel. Once they understand that ours is a gourmet cuisine, they get up and leave or order a couple of dishes from the à la carte menu. We often ask ourselves whether it is perhaps appropriate to include a tasting with traditional Roman dishes but then we agree with the fact that this would distort our idea of ​​cuisine too much.” Is this a problem that only affects tourists? «Looking for Roman dishes, yes. On the Italian customer front, the problem is another: this winter the Romans preferred to stay at home, excluding special occasions such as birthdays or anniversaries. The positive thing is that when they try our dishes, they leave the table happy. It is the push that keeps us going”, concludes Antonella.

Future winter forecast? «They are opening five-star luxury hotels, we hope they will be a driving force», hopes Pipero. Terrinoni, however, isn’t so hopeful: «Or maybe it’s the new normality. I remember that twenty years ago, in January, the restaurants in Rome closed because there was a shortage of tourists.” The chef, however, comes back with an idea: «Why not behave like clothing stores or hotels during the low season, creating ad hoc offers for a period that is not exactly prosperous?». Proposal that needs to be explored further, which we will explore further.