Watches and Wonders 2024 was the stage of a significant stylistic revolution for two of the most prestigious brands in the world of watchmaking, Rolex And Tudor. Both companies, which as is known share the same ownership despite having an increasingly diversified production and distribution system, have decided to relaunch theuse of yellow golda material traditionally associated with luxury and refinement, surprisingly applying it to their sports models that are in some ways more “performance”.
Rolex Deepsea
Rolex Deepsea ref. 136668LB, yellow gold Oyster case and bracelet, blue ceramic Cerachrom bezel disc. Rolex – Costa Manufacture caliber 3235 movement 54,600 euros
The crowned house has entered with a straight leg into this world suspended between luxury and performance, presenting a full-gold version of the Deepsea, a collection that stands out for its ability to combine technical performance and refined aesthetics. His version entirely in 18k yellow gold (with a total weight of 320 grams, about half of which is precious metal), represents a significant evolution both in design and technology: the new 60-minute graduated bezel in blue Cerachrom, a ceramic material known for its scratch and corrosion resistance, ideal for use in extreme marine environments. The blue lacquered dial, combined with the bezel, creates a visual effect of depth and recalls the shades of the open sea, while the name Deepsea is elegantly presented in powder yellow, contrasting with the gold of the case.
One of the most significant innovations is the introduction of a high-performance ceramic compression ring within the Ringlock system. This component, colored blue and with a circular satin finish, not only improves the aesthetics of the watch but also increases its functionality. The inscriptions on the ring are engraved and then gilded, a detail that reflects Rolex’s attention to every aspect of design and manufacturing. L’use of ceramic as a structural element It helps improve compressive strength and anti-deformation properties, essential for maintaining the structural integrity and waterproofness of the watch under great depths.
At the heart of the Rolex Deepsea we find the caliber 3235, a latest generation mechanical movement developed and produced by Rolex. This movement not only ensures precise display of hours, minutes, seconds and date, but is also an example of how Rolex watchmaking research continues to push the limits of precision, reliability and energy efficiency.
Tudor Black Bay 58
Tudor Black Bay 58 ref. 79018V, yellow gold case and bracelet. Waterproof to 200 meters – Costa 32,800 euros
For Tudor, the affiliated brand it has always represented a more accessible entry point to the Rolex universe, the adoption of yellow gold for the first time in sports models marks a decisive and unusual foray into the luxury segment. This choice reflects the company’s ambition to raise its profile and attract customers who look for a fusion of excellent performance and exclusive design in the brand. The result is called Black Bay 58and its characteristic is the use of yellow gold both for the case and for the massive bracelet accompanied by the “T-fit” clasp.
Badge the matte green dialwhile the movement is a manufacture caliber MT5400certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC) with a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 70 hours.
The 2024 Geneva Motor Show will go down in watchmaking history as the moment when Rolex and Tudor revisited and revitalized the use of yellow gold, confirming their leading position in the industry. This renewal not only strengthens the brands identity, but also establishes new standards of aesthetics and performanceattesting that luxury and sportiness can coexist harmoniously in a watch.
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