Known since ancient Rome under the name of trebulanumThe trebbiano it is the grape variety that produces the largest quantity of wine in the world. The origin of this grape is undoubtedly Italian, but considerable uncertainty reigns over the area of origin due to the great abundance of geographical locations that refer to this etymology. The characteristics that have led to the enormous diffusion of Trebbiano are its resistance to diseases and parasites, its great adaptability and its very strong productivity. In Italy, from north to south, we find it in almost all regionsand where the vine has played a key role, it has added the adjective to its name that indicates its belonging.
Here we focus on the best expressions of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, a region where – if among the red wines the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo certainly has the lion’s share – as regards the white side, it is now clear the excessive power of pecorino on the Trebbiano: during the tastings for the guideWines of Italy 2024 we tasted over 100 samples for the first, just over 60 for the second. But the Trebbiano isn’t about to give up. It seemed to us that producers are trying to restore the Abruzzo white par excellence with versions that come out at least after a year, or even more: we found complex, nuanced, very interesting wines as we went back in time.
The best Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
here are the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo which we have awarded with i Three glasses hey Two Red Glasses and they belong.
The Trebbiano ’21 Of Amorotti it is multifaceted, complex and solid like few other wines of the type. Chamomile, dried fruit, candied ginger, a typical note of wheat blend into an aromatic profile that ends in a rustic flavor on the palate, but of great interest for how it manages to blend acidity and a savory background. Gaetano Carboni is at the helm of this young company from Loreto Aprutino, one of the noble capitals of Abruzzo wine. About ten years ago he decided to dedicate himself to wine production, reopening the doors of the Palazzo dei Baroni Amorotti, recovering the old cellar. The vineyard, divided into several parcels, extends for 16 hectares; fermentations occur spontaneously and large wood is preferred for maturation: the result is a small range that made us jump on our seats this year.
The wines of Ciavolich that we tasted this year all belong to the line Fosso Cancelli, a handful of fully convincing artisanal labels. To lead the way for the small group we find the Trebbiano ’20: Mediterranean herbs, white plum, gooseberry, yellow flowers for a tactile palate supported by great freshness and a crescendo finish: very fascinating white. The Ciavolich family arrived from Bulgaria to Miglianico, on the Teatine Hills, around 1500; approximately 350 years later, he began to dedicate himself to viticulture. It is therefore useless to place emphasis on the long family tradition. What matters, in fact, is today: Chiara has the task of leading the company, a strong reality with a vineyard divided into two main parcels, 24 hectares in Loreto Aprutino, with vines that date back to the 1960s, and six hectares in Pianella, with pergolas and awnings installed in 2000.
Hay, wild herbs, iodized puffs, balsamic hints, lemon pulp: these are the suggestions that make their way into the glass of Trebbiano Vigneto di Popoli ’20 Of Royal Valley. In the mouth it shines for finesse and elegance, but also for the management of the flavor which extends into a tapered finish. Leonardo Pizzolo arrived in Popoli, from Verona, in 1999. He moved from the city of Verona towards one of the most fascinating territories of Abruzzo, an uncontaminated space where three large protected areas meet, Gran Sasso, Majella and Sirente-Velino. The management of the vineyards is biodynamic and the vinification is artisanal, ingredients that give life to a small range where Montepulciano and Trebbiano become wines with character as well as territorial, starting from the entry labels, and which in the “crus” gain nuances and complexity.
The wines of Valentini they are always of an excellent standard but lately, especially on the Trebbiano, the search for freshness and agility has stripped the iconic yellow labels of that moody and material trait that built their charm. However, we are ready to be proven wrong by the test of time: the evolution of certain wines, sometimes, lives on a strange magic. In 2023 Francesco Paolo Valentini was proclaimed Knight of Labor. The honor is just another seal of excellence on the precious work carried out in recent years, a commitment that has brought the family company to the Olympus of Italian wine and beyond.
The Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Di-vèrto 2021 Of Tower of the Blessed it is a wine that expresses a clear sunny character, the aromas are reminiscent of wheat and chamomile, then a ripe peach emerges. The mouth is rich, warm, enveloping, powerful, with notable aromatic expansion and length. In the second part of the mouth it develops a delicately smoky trace of toasted almond and hazelnut; closes full and juicy with fruity sensations and hints of tea. Loreto Aprutino is one of the capitals of Abruzzo wine. In one of its districts, Poggioragone to be precise, we find the cellar of Adriana Galasso and Fausto Albanesi. Having left their jobs, in 1999 they decided to dedicate themselves to wine: a choice which, in hindsight, we can judge to be more than wise given the excellent results achieved by the company.
Excellent Trebbiano d’Abruzzo La Collina Biologica 2022 Of Cirelli: straw and cereals, iodized nuances, medicinal herbs, lively and tense mouth with a nice background energy. Francesco Cirelli is an agricultural entrepreneur capable of clearly and precisely developing the many ideas that come to him. The latest, in chronological order and dating back to last year, is “glamping”, a sort of luxury camping among the vineyards, but it is just another aspect of a 360-degree agricultural company which, together with the vineyards, features , fruit and vegetables, livestock and olive groves. In the cellar, wines with artisan traits are born, made with spontaneous fermentations, amphorae, sensitivity and a pinch of personality.
Very good Trebbiano Notari 2021 Of Nicodemi Farm: lemon, cedar and lime make up the citrus component of a nose that is also expressed through aromatic herbs, especially basil. The great olfactory cleanliness is a prelude to equally clear gustatory clarity, an elegant sip that returns to the herbaceous and citrus peel sensations. Elena and Alessandro followed in their father Bruno’s footsteps by continuing the production of wines that began in the late 1990s. The company vineyard is located on the hills of Contrada Veniglio, in Notaresco and enjoys the best the Teramo area can offer: clay-limestone soil and evening breezes coming from the Adriatic. In the cellar there is no lack of desire to experiment, without forgetting the roots of tradition, characteristics that are found in a range of wines dedicated to the natives of the region.
The Trebbiano Spelt 2020 Of Valentina it smells of chamomile and cedar which combine with a beautiful sensation of sweet white fruit; then the aromatic herbs arrive to pave the way for a relaxed, relaxed and very tasty sip. Respect for the territory and sustainability: along these two lines the Di Properzio brothers continue their wine project founded in the 1990s. The vineyards spread across different territories, making use of the sun and sea and mountain breezes. The production of Sabatino, Andrea and Roberto’s company makes use of the precious help of Luca D’Attoma who transforms the grapes into a range of highly expressive labels with a strong territorial imprint. Two labels of excellent workmanship compete for the stage.
He’s really great Trebbiano il Tenuta di Professore that the company D’Alesio – Sciarr introduced us this year. It’s about the version 2016fascinating in tones of cedar, yellow flowers and turmeric, lightly toasted in the mouth, with a tactile and material palate that nevertheless does not lack freshness.
The Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Zion 2021 Of Spinelli it is very good, broad in its aromatic palette where sensations of ripe peach, pine needles, cedar and yellow flowers come together. Complex in the mouth, sunny and rich, yet highly drinkable. The company, founded in 1973 by Vincenzo Spinelli, can be counted among those that have made wine-growing Abruzzo known throughout the world. Today it is led by his sons, Carlo and Adriano, who, in the 90s, gave a strong acceleration to the family business and above all to exports which today account for around 60% of the total production. It’s been a while since the company found space in the pages of our Guide, but the wines of the Zione line, which to tell the truth we had never tasted, fully convinced us this year.
