Enrico Trova is one of the most appreciated Asti chefs. And there is no personality more suited to measuring the temperature of a city than a restaurateur because he is always in contact with the people and therefore has a privileged observatory in grasping their moods.
What is the state of catering in Asti compared to other cities?
«From this point of view, Asti seems to be abandoned to itself. We have tourists and also locals who often frequent the restaurants. Years ago there was a restaurateurs’ association but it has disappeared. We also need someone from the municipal administration who can unite us together. In some smaller towns than ours there is a community of restaurateurs. There is a lack of a common voice that can be heard.”
It’s all a proliferation of sandwich shops and piadina shops. How do you judge this phenomenon?
«It’s easier to open a fast food restaurant because you attract younger kids who are looking for a quick meal. For this reason we have new hamburger and piadina shops. The danger is that everything will become saturated and that in a year someone will close. There are fewer and fewer restaurants instead. Fast food can take away space from more traditional catering. And it’s not that these new activities are all that convenient. I go to eat a piadina and spend 10-12 euros.”
She lived in America for a long time. Don’t you think that a sort of Americanization is taking place here too?
«I love Asti but when I was in the United States I wasn’t homesick. When I returned, I rediscovered it. Italy is the least Americanized state in all of Europe. Luckily we are still behind but approval is coming to us too. Yet you find the beauty of cities like Asti in America built. In Los Angeles there is a shopping center modeled on an Italian city like the square they lack. We are lucky to have authentic things, even the sounds of bells that always amaze American tourists.”
Will the center be forced to give way in favor of large shopping centers?
«As long as there are tourists the center will fill up. However, the road system to get there is terrible and parking costs a lot. People prefer to go to the Borgo also because it is easier to park. We need to pay attention to this aspect.”
Where should we learn from the US model instead?
«What I always noticed is that when I was in Beverly Hills, you felt the presence of the Municipality. They knew how to promote their events. Last November only two days before we discovered that there would be the Truffle Fair. More communication and synergies are needed. In this, the Americans on the West Coast are light years ahead but they lack heart compared to us.”
You have foreign customers: what is your opinion of Asti?
«I have activated a tour with tourist agencies for my cooking courses and when tourists come to us they are enthusiastic about the city. After the 2006 Turin Games, Piedmont became more famous and an important destination. It turned out that our region was also there. If we had more voice and made more agreements with Alba Asti it would be the best with Turin.”
The most fascinating places?
«First of all, I really like the center. That corridor that from Piazza San Martino crosses Via Garetti and arrives in Piazza San Secondo is fantastic. Year after year in this enhancement of our ways we are going in the right direction. A gastronomic area has been created where people flock. If you add a few more shops, people would pass through them more often, even just to have a coffee.”
What do you love most?
«I like the familiarity of the city, sitting in bars to chat».
Your favorite place?
«Don Bosco. I wanted to strongly transmit this courtyard culture to my daughter, bring her to the park, to the oratory.”
Who do you admire most?
«The enterprising people, who organize for example the Wine Street or the Bagna Cauda Day. People who make the city come alive».
Let’s move on to the painful notes. Where is Asti most lacking?
«The road system has always been problematic. I agree with removing cars from the center but it would be wrong if we don’t organize ourselves better. We are full of construction sites and people are disoriented.”
There is always talk that Asti should take on greater tourist value. But what is needed for this to happen?
«I would like to have a truffle fair worthy of the name. It should be given the same importance as the Palio. And then see a cleaner and more well-kept city. I put half the blame on the administration and half on us citizens. I’ll tell you something: I secretly start painting the flower boxes green when they lose color because no one else does it.”
