Alessandro Michele he didn’t waste any time. Just over two months after his appointment as creative director of Valentine the Roman designer has just unveiled, surprisingly, his first collection for the historic Roman maison. The brand shared a lookbook of over 170 apparel outfits and 93 shots dedicated to accessories during Milano Moda Uomo, a few hours before the catwalk of Guccia label of which he was creative director until 2022. The proposals, both men’s and women’s, represent the 2025 cruise collection while the debut on the catwalk is expected in Paris during the September fashion week.
Fans of Alessandro Michele will find the entire stylistic alphabet that made his approach to fashion unmistakable during the Gucci years. Yesterday the creative made an appointment with some publications via Zoom, explaining that his debut collection needed to be seen before arriving in stores next October. The designer praised his team who worked “with so much love and without looking at the clock, lost in the archives, like orchestra players tuning their instruments. Everything happened in a very natural way and I thought it was right to pay homage to their work; it was unnatural to keep the collection secret,” he reports Wwd.
Michele and his team drew inspiration from the founder’s work Valentino Garavani in the 70s and 80s, an “extraordinary moment to investigate, as he did not succumb to hedonism, he stayed away from oversized shoulders”. The clothes appear very rich, elaborate, embellished with ruffles and ruffles. In a riot of textures and patterns that have always been dear to the designer, animal prints, tweed, houndstooth, stripes, checks and polka dots stand out. A clear break from the aesthetics of its predecessor Pierpaolo Piccioli if not for the use of the logo, very present on the new bags. Denimwear meets dresses covered in bright applications, long fringes and sequins. The proposals for men and women interact fluidly between brocades and branches that distance themselves from quiet luxury. Michele introduced the ‘Chez Valentino Rome/Paris’ logo on some garments and created a sort of monogam by playing with the famous ‘V’ of the fashion house.
Before arriving at Valentino, after his long experience in the double G fashion house, he spent more time with his family, realizing that “freedom also means doing what you love. I chose this job because it is part of me and not doing what you love means not being free. I found myself through work.” Michele’s couture debut will take place at the beginning of next year but many elements of this collection confirm the designer’s talent in creating a universe far from any trend, the creative freedom of high fashion will further amplify her stylistic code. Michele’s first ready-to-wear proposals for Valentino cement her status as a maximalist designer and will be appreciated by fans who have favored her rise over the years as head of Gucci’s creative direction. Only time will tell if the ‘more is more’ approach will replicate the success achieved in the past for the Roman fashion house.
Valentino is headed by Mayhoolain July 2023 Keringa French giant that owns, among others, Bottega VenetaGucci, Saint Laurent And Balenciagaacquired 30% of Valentino for 1.7 billion euros.
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