We went to eat at Nicola Vaporidis’ Taverna Trastevere in Milan, who after his career as an actor, acting and the Island of the Famous, now dedicates himself to catering. As the name suggests, the cuisine is Roman, but what are its dishes like then? We tried carbonara and amatriciana, as per tradition, and compared to those of Max Mariola, which we had also tasted, we found a surprise… Here is our experience
Cwhat happened to Nicolas Vaporidis? At the beginning of the 2000s, when watching TV was still something quite common for everyone, it was practically impossible to escape the various films, comedies and cinepanettones, such as I love you in all the languages of the world by Pieraccioni, or Night before exams by Fausto Brizzi, the latter having now become a classic, especially during the Maturity period and end-of-year exams. It is precisely in these films that he acts Nicolas Vaporidis, who, however, after participating in theIsland of the famous in 2022, he disappeared from the scene. In a recent interview with Vanity Fair the former actor declared that precisely theIsland, where he won, after 99 days of reality TV, it was a way to “take leave of the system”, given that now his main activity is no longer acting, but that of an entrepreneur and restaurateur. In fact, already in 2019, Vaporidis opened its first restaurant in London, the Taverna Trastevere in the Winstanley Estate district, in the south of the city, where, as the name suggests, the dishes are Roman cuisine. After the success in London, he then arrived too the restaurant in Milan, which bears the same name, inaugurated in December 2023 in via Statuo 16. We, who in Milan have tried all the most in (and not only), from the 26 euro pasta in bianco at Portrait, to Mariola’s carbonara and Diego Abatantuono’s meatballs, we couldn’t miss this opportunity. So, we booked a table and on a cool early summer evening, here we are at the Taverna Trastevere in Milan.
Gright from the start the welcome was superb: a young lady dressed in white at the cash register asked our names, another young lady dressed in black, with a silk shirt, accompanied us to the table, and on the way at least 5 waiters and head waiters continued to repeat “Good evening. Good evening”, with reverence, as if we were real important guests. In short, “how chic” we thought, expectations were definitely raised. The atmosphere was very elegant, with white tablecloths, soft lighting, shiny cutlery and bottles of fine wine on the shelves, although a certain touch of “Roman” was also evident, from a bust of Julius Caesar on the stairs, to several reliefs of centurions and gladiators on horseback on the walls. After all, we are in Milan and some distinctive sign of recall was needed.
SLeafing through the menu we immediately noticed the slightly high prices: with first courses from 18 to 32 euros and starters between 15 and 20, which impressed us a little, although it should also be noted that, on the one hand we are in Moscow area, one of the most expensive in Milan, on the other the elegant service and welcome made us immediately understand that this is not a simple trattoria. An interesting detail on the menu was then the dedications to Rome and Roman cuisine, from a recipe for Amatriciana by Aldo Fabrizi – “my matriciana” – a a phrase by Alberto Sordi – “Rome is not a city like the others. It is a large museum, a living room, to be walked through on tiptoe” – capable of immersing diners – or at least, us – in the authentic culinary culture of the Capital.
ANDBeing a Roman restaurant, what could we have if not carbonara and amatriciana? Accompanying fried courgette flowers filled with ricotta and anchovies and an inevitable supplement, washed down with good wine. We didn’t even have time to look around a bit, among tourists and elegant ladies, where, even at the other tables, only carbonara and amatriciana are eaten (although the menu is quite rich) that our dishes arrived immediately. After the experience of Mariola’s salty and very expensive carbonara, we had a bit of hesitation, which however immediately disappeared when we tasted it: Very creamy and tasty, we immediately liked Vaporidis’ carbonara, although the real highlight and unexpected highlight was the amatriciana. A simple dish to prepare even at home, so it is rarely ordered at a restaurant, it was made with great skill, with the right crunchiness of the bacon and the sweetness of the velvety tomato sauce.
THE Fried courgette flowers, stuffed with ricotta and anchovies were incandescent, a sign of having been freshly prepared, with a light batter coating. A pleasure. In the norm, however, the supplì, but after the goodness of the two pasta dishes, we forgive him. Afterwards, although already full, we were persuaded by the waitress to also take a pistachio and raspberry sweet: the roche, or rather a creamy ball with a tender heart, which also filled the last available space in our stomach. A little skepticism at the moment of the bill: the cover charge is 5 euros, just like at Mariola, but again, thinking back to the service of his restaurant, where they rushed you and where there wasn’t even a tablecloth, and that of Vaporidis, however, where the courtesy and professionalism were evident immediately, the service justifies the price. Overall therefore good, between water, wine, cover charge, a starter, a first course and dessert, we are around 50-60 euros each. Not a very low figure, not to go there every day, but still within the Milan average in terms of prices, and above average in terms of taste. So would we go back? Probably yes.
And PS: Mariola, about whom we have spoken to you far and wide, doesn’t want them, but at Nicolas Vaporidis, the carbonara was more good.
