The great fashion expert Antonio Mancinelli in a post on Instagram had his say on the “Scurati-censorship” matter. Mancinelli, however, only decides to start from this case which has made all of Italy talk to then focus on a problem that many sectors of Italian criticism have in common (not just the fashion sector to which he refers): that of self-censorship. “Why don’t we try to be purged instead of censoring ourselves?” Here’s what he wrote
THEThe critic and supreme fashion expert Antonio Mancinelli with a post on Instagram he had his say on the case Antonio Scurati and Rai. Mancinelli (once again) did not limit himself to commenting on the fact, he preferred to extrapolate the theme and propose to his followers a valuable, much more layered and complex reflection on the topic at the center of the centre, right and left controversies: censorship. And about self-censorship…
It would be superfluous to add anything to the words in defense of Antonio Scurati censored by Rai. What happened, however, made me think that among the worst consequences of these anti-democratic reprisals is the danger of a form perhaps worse than prohibition: self-censorship, limiting oneself for fear of not being liked enough, controlling one’s thoughts so as not to incur the wrath of the brand that could remove advertising, eliminate us from fashion shows, no longer give a ‘little thought’ to Christmas or not pay for the trip to the cruise or pre-fall collections. This image by @1granary speaks for itself.’
From Scurati, literature and censorship we immediately move on to the investigation of the suffocating relationship that often exists between those who write, those who ‘criticize’ and create with the world of advertising, of the media and large companies, specifically Mancinelli is referring to fashion houses. After all, the image he posted speaks clearly: ‘I’m a fashion critic until I get an invite’.
‘On the one hand, it is true that a lot lies in the journalist’s ability to remain neutral and that often receiving gifts is the most direct way to get an idea of the quality of the product, on the other hand, in other sectors, gifts of this type could allegations of corruption arise. I’m sorry to say it, but I see that in fashion journalism an unsolicited prudence has become the norm, a Pavlovian reflex because afterwards ‘who knows what could happen’. What could happen, come on? Will the advertising that gives so much work to entire editorial offices be removed? Perhaps.
CIt must be said that self-censorship is a problem that affects multiple categories of journalists and extends far beyond the field of fashion. Let’s think about the entertainment sector, of literature, of art. In all these little worlds (especially in Italy, forty-first place in the world for freedom of expression) let’s be honest, it is always preferable for a critic, a journalist, to speak out in favor of what he has seen or read. Otherwise who would like his presence more?
But if every fashion critic felt emancipated from constraints on freely expressing their opinion, such a threat would disappear. The voluntary subservience of the press towards the luxury fashion houses lies in the fear of losing privileges which, in the end, are little things: a handbag, a business trip, a front row seat. Preventive goodwill thus leads to the symbolic: the diabolical mix of private and professional life allows you to do cartwheels with colleagues by calling the stylist “friend”; the exchange of favors and positive reviews lubricates relationships with the fashion houses even if they are not “generous” with the magazine. Why, instead of censoring ourselves, don’t we try to be purged? I am no longer invited by some brands: I have given myself ample reasons for this. Also because, as the never-too-praised @suzymenkes wrote, ‘if they don’t invite you to a fashion show that is a work tool, you can’t write about it’. We leave the power to take away our freedom to others.
Mancinelli concludes his analysis by urging journalists and fashion critics to express themselves, if necessary, against or against something, without fear, without limiting or taming the natural flow of their thoughts. However, there is one thing to ask ourselves, a question that goes beyond the fashion system, Would it be easier to be sincere when you are already known and established? Angry young rookies are still popular or would they risk, with “cruel” honesty, shooting themselves in the foot?
