There’s no point in hiding it: the shame of being accused of buying fakes can have a very, very significant impact on social sustainability, much more than love for the planet or for fair wages. Furthermore, today “competing” with counterfeiting is second hand, renamed pre-loved in an “eco and fashion” key. Logically speaking, the competition for second hand should also be made by the fashion houses that produce ever more expensive, ever more exclusive bags. Yet brands, such as Chanel and Hermès, are continuing to increase prices, following a trend that doesn’t seem to stop.
The second hand market and fears of the growth of the counterfeiting market do not slow down the increase in prices of the fashion houses
In an article published yesterday by The Fashion Law, it emerged that luxury brands continue to increase prices: this spring Chanel hit the headlines for having brought the price of its coveted Flap bag above 10,000 euros in at least one market , while Hermès announced it would raise prices by between 8 and 9 percent worldwide. At the same time, writes The Fashion Law, the prices of Prada bags and those of Dior and Louis Vuitton, among others, have continued to rise in recent years and Rolex recently revealed that it would increase the prices of some of its watches for the second time in 2024.
On Instagram, fake bag censors are gaining followers
There are essentially two reasons behind the increases: one purely economic, i.e. to top up the price tag to cover costs, from the increase in the prices of raw materials and labor to the specific impact on prices caused by interruptions in the supply chain and of the related shipping costs. The other is dictated by positioning: being exclusive means being for those few who can afford to spend huge sums on a bag. In short, put it this way it would seem like a fight against those who increase the price, in reality the variables at play for the market, at least in recent years, have increased. Alongside counterfeiting, which in some way has always been driven by an irreducible slice of “I would like but I can’t” or “I can” but all that money for a bag seems too much (either for moral reasons, or for grim niggardliness), the second hand phenomenon has arrived. The other variable, that of the shame of being pinched with a fake on the arm, seems to remain unchanged. Indeed, perhaps it has strengthened because the shame of being a “poor guy” who cannot afford the original is added to the shame of fueling the phenomenon of counterfeiting and exploitation. This phenomenon is also demonstrated by the birth of Instagram accounts such as TheFakeBirkinSlayer, which publishes stories in which it unmasks various influencers and so-called “VIPs” who show off fakes on a daily basis. The account, which today has 303 thousand followers, describes itself as Just say no to fakes.
As mentioned, the phenomenon of counterfeiting, at least in the eyes of those who delude themselves that a designer label always “ennobles” them, finds an alternative in second-hand purchases, this time of original bags but at less exorbitant prices than those of boutiques. The growth in second-hand purchases, however, does not seem to mitigate the rush for price increases by luxury brands which may sell fewer pieces, but by raising the price tag they still see their turnover grow.
A recent research presented by Silvia Andreani, Ipsos luxury, fashion and beauty officer, conducted on a sample of over 1500 people through Knowledge panel, an Ipsos online panel created to involve different generations with different attitudes to consumption and use of digital, has highlighted that the concept of circular fashion known by 31 percent of those interviewed is mainly associated with its more active and creative aspects of recovery, re-adaptation and recycling.
The majority of second hand purchases concern clothing (72 percent) and bags (27 percent)
The second hand market, in particular, includes both sales and exchanges and, according to the Ipsos survey, has Gen Z as its main player, in first place among the generations in terms of percentage of buyers, 26 percent, and sellers ( 10 percent). Furthermore, the survey shows that 29 percent of those interviewed declare that they are active in selling their clothing, while a higher percentage (47 percent) is dedicated exclusively to purchasing. The majority of purchases concern generic clothing (72 percent) and bags (27 percent) and 63 percent concern non-luxury brands, 37 percent luxury brands. It is very clear, then, that the first reason that makes people lean toward purchasing a second-hand garment is economic savings (69 percent), while what most blocks them is a prejudice about hygiene (55 percent). And it is in this 69 percent that fashion victims lurk who “avoid” the shame of fakes and who have found a very valid ally in the pre-loved platforms.
The romanticism about love for the planet, in this case, is not there, but the result, even in terms of sustainability, is valid all the same.
“The increase in interest in the second hand market is a positive sign. It is also essential to consider the end of life of these garments and accessories, when they are no longer reusable or repairable. In Italy, several players in the textile and fashion sector stand out for their commitment to circularity, implementing dedicated strategies to close the circle and give products a second life. To have a significant impact on the consumption system, however, it is necessary to strengthen collaborations between the various players. Partnerships are, in fact, crucial to develop large-scale solutions”, explained Simon Giuliani, global marketing director of Candiani, in recent days on the sidelines of the presentation of the Ipsos research.
“The interest in second hand fashion requires companies to be more committed to social as well as environmental issues, through supply chain partnerships and transparent communication to generate awareness. It is necessary to integrate the skills of the various actors to guarantee a real circular economy, favoring reuse over recycling”, said Alfio Fontana, corporate partnership & CSR manager of Humana People to People Italia, a non-profit, independent and secular organisation, founded in 1998 to carry out international cooperation projects in the world and social and environmental activities in Italy also thanks to a circular economy process.
“With the sale of Carla and Franca Sozzani’s archives, the Foundation wants to encourage collecting, archiving and wearing clothes and accessories that have high values of quality and timeless craftsmanship, therefore sustainable”, stated Carla Sozzani, founder of the Sozzani Foundation .
