Chef Federico Ferrero, winner of the third edition of Masterchef, spoke about how difficult it is to find a focaccia worthy of the name in Genoa. No, it’s not enough to say focaccia for it to be good. And in spite of the purists he says that lard should be used. The problem, however, is not only the flour used, often industrial, but that even in the best ovens there is a shortage of olive oil…
DGiving the right name to things is the first step to understanding them. This always applies, even when it comes to food. For this reason, in fact, the chef Federico Francesco Ferrerowinner of the third edition of Masterchefhe asked: “Is it enough to say focaccia for it to be good?”. Ferrero talked about how difficult it was to find a focaccia worthy of the name in Genoa. And above all made with extra virgin olive oil: “I visited all the best ovens and finally found one that had among the ingredients extra virgin olive oil”. Continuing in the video posted on Instagram in the description of the Genoese product, the chef focuses on a further element of the recipe that will make the “purists” nervous: “Of course there is also lard, which if we write it on social media now people will say : ‘Oh God, the lard in the Genoese focaccia, a product of our Liguria!’. No, lard goes into the typical Genoese focaccia”. Obviously, the list of ordinary ingredients follows: “Then there is the flour, usually unfortunately industrial, and the salt, which is often not exceptional. Now I don’t want to start the usual controversy with those who unfortunately don’t know the flavor, but salts are not all the same and it is not Maldon salt that must be used for it to be good. There is a difference between rock salt, salt pan salt, refined salt with additives: they are very different flavours”. Ferrero opens a small parenthesis on additives: “Before anyone starts the usual controversies: additives are the antiaggregants that are put in large-scale retail salt and also change the flavor”.
“Here one ingredient is certainly at least good. The aroma is very good, the focaccia feels like it was made well.” Finally, the tasting: “It’s warm, wonderful. If it were made here with a great artisanal flour it would really have more flavour, but instead it tastes very little like wheat. But I’m sure we’re at the top in the city.” Among the comments on chef Ferrero’s video there are those who insist on the now lost traditions, while another user writes that the focaccia recipe is only apparently simple: “Even with excellent ingredients, the process of making it requires times and methods that pain they marry with production for trade. Baking a good focaccia is for many, but not for everyone”. As always, the cuisine in Italy does not please everyone, not even when it comes to focaccia.
