Bari calls, Naples responds. Lhe Apulian city is now one of the most sought-after destinations for Neapolitan pizzerias who decide to invest in the South. First “L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele”, then Vincenzo Capuano and from today, also Errico Porzio. Social platforms, now a privileged communication channel for locals, often turn into “battlefields”: there are those who appreciate the ever-increasing offer of Neapolitan restaurants and pizzerias and those who, defending their Bari culinary tradition, appear a little ‘ reluctant.
But does the derby between Neapolitan pizza and Bari pizza really exist? According to Jurgens Masciulli, general manager of the food asset of the Antica Pizzeria Da Michele franchising group, «absolutely not. The social debate is a fun but time-consuming debate, because the people of Bari love their pizza and their traditions, we only offer an alternative to a pizza that has been like this for 150 years. They are two different styles. In our restaurant, most of the pizza chefs are Neapolitans but inside there are many figures from Bari who have learned our techniques in a beautiful environment. Our customers continue to appreciate the taste, the location and the service, but we don’t want to replace the Bari pizza.” It is clear that citizens are extremely attached to their traditions, especially when it comes to food. But there is a segment of Bari people who do not hold back when faced with the “Bari-Naples” culinary axis.
For Errico Porzio, who will inaugurate his new restaurant at 6.30 pm today in the headquarters of the historic “Lo Sprofondo”, «Bari is a welcoming city. The term pizza is something that does not belong to us Neapolitans, it would be presumptuous to say this. In my opinion, “rivalry” exists between all types, because each city has its own peculiarities.” There are those who argue that in the Apulian capital we should focus on local activities, but according to the Neapolitan pizza chef «the openings are not made by chance. I really believe in the South and I like investing here. Bari is growing, and in this way we bring several jobs. Eight Neapolitan employees will be employed, and around twenty from Bari. We try to create an integration, a mix, but we will not offer Bari panzerotti because we don’t want to invade the local traditions. We will be united by a culinary twinning, as well as by the same football presidency.” The social controversy, however, has moved from the “stove” to the football field: the red and white fans, in fact, target the club and the president Luigi De Laurentiis (whose father Aurelio is the owner of Napoli) for the unfortunate season and the risk of relegation to Serie C, to the point that someone suggests in the comments under Porzio’s videos “not to invite him, because we don’t want him”. Today football and cooking will be more united than ever: in fact, the opening of the Bari pizzeria “Brasvò” is also planned, in Bari Vecchia, which also has Nicola Bellomo, a Bari player, among its partners. The passwords? Thin and crunchy, «the pizza that the people of Bari like most» they explain. Finally, to get everyone to agree, there is a place that has chosen to offer both types for over a dozen years: “Bari-Napoli”. «In our opinion it is not a “competition”, but personal tastes win, which is why we offer both Bari and Neapolitan pizza – explains Antonio Mastrolonardo, the owner of the restaurant -. When we opened, 90% of the requests were for Bari pizza, also because Neapolitan pizza was not well known, here they called it “double mass”. Now the percentage has risen, we are at 60-40. I don’t think there is any rivalry, because the lover of thin and crunchy pizza will remain so and, vice versa, those who love the soft and double crust will remain faithful to him.”
