What to eat for the May Festival of San Nicola in Bari

Much more than a simple patron saint, Saint Nicholas is a figure of absolute importance for Bari. A saint originally from Turkey, he is celebrated on at least two occasions in the city (also in Venice he is remembered together with San Marco, which is the symbol of the Serenissima). There first is the night between December 5th and 6th, in which an identification is made between Saint Nicholas (also San Nicolao or San Nicolò) and Santa Claus who brings gifts to children. In fact, December 6th marks the anniversary of the Saint’s death.

The translation of the bones of Saint Nicholas

While between 7 and 9 May in Bari, the translation of the bones is celebrated. Saint Nicholas in fact died in Myra, in Asia Minor, and his bones would have remained here if two operations (translations) had not been set up to bring them back to Bari, where they are currently venerated. The first of these trips would be was carried out by a ship carrying around 60 sailors from Bari who brought the bones of the Saint “home” on 9 May 1087. This date also explains the anniversary which begins to be celebrated at the end of April and has its culmination in the procession with the statue of the Saint which is taken on board and then brought back after the mass for public worship on 8 May.

Street food and the Villaggio del Gusto

The three days have a calendar that includes multiple events and manages to host devotees of the Saint even from neighboring regions. Obviously the celebrations also translate to the table – it is no coincidence that the festival is also called “May Festival” – where Puglia expresses itself to the fullest thanks to seasonal dishes and street gastronomy. Some of these can be tasted in the annual Villaggio del Gusto, set up on Largo Giannella from 6 to 12 May, where street foods from Puglia (but also from other regions) are welcomed together with local craft breweries.

Sgagliozze and popizze

These are the days of the triumph of Bari cuisine (here is the list of our favorite restaurants to savor the best). Among the main dishes we certainly find the panzerotto (our map with the best addresses), but together there are also the nonsense (or scagliozze), a typical dish from various Italian regions consisting of cut slices of polenta, fried in boiling oil, finally salted and eaten. Another street food par excellence are the popizzewhich are often better known outside the borders of Puglia as pittule, or pettules. This is the Salento name given to small balls of leavened dough that are fried and eaten while still hot. In Bari it’s the popizza.

Artichokes, tielle of rice, potatoes and mussels, but also raw seafood season the tables of restaurants and homes, which are then accompanied by meats and fish roasted on the grill. We also have the inevitable fresh pasta, with orecchiette and also other shapes prepared to season sauces and home vegetables. There is no shortage of tributes from local brands who create recipes and dishes specifically to pay homage to Saint Nicholas.