of Santa Di Salvo
The tradition has disappeared, but Michele & Michele Giugliano still remember it. It was the ancient wine trade. The “brokers”, the mediators with chestnut barrels, arrived in Sant’Antonio Abate by cart to negotiate the deal and bring the farmers’ wine to the city. It all ended with an epic dinner, an unforgettable meal. The director of Il Mattino, Giovanni Ansaldo, also participated in one of these rites around Christmas. Alberto Consiglio wrote about it in a story that the Giugliano family had republished in the 1990s. From this agriculture that today we would define as “heroic” was born that Gragnano which, bottled by hand, often reached the other side of the world. Michele’s grandfather sent him to Harry Truman and Al Capone. The gangster and the president had the same tastes.
Among the celebrations of Mimì’s eightieth birthday at the Ferrovia in Naples, the good wine that grandfather Emilio brought to Naples from Lettere could not be missing. Thus was born the Mimi 80 wine produced by Cantine Astroni in two variations. Penisola Sorrentina Dop Lettere, the lively and high quality wine born from a blend of Piedirosso, Aglianico, Sciascinoso. And Campi Flegrei Dop Falanghina, the savory white with ancient and noble origins that characterizes the volcanic territory. Homage within the homage, the wine finally makes the wives of the two Giugliano cousins protagonists. The red is called Lilina, the white Flora, the two silent heroines who have always been close to seniors and juniors ensuring the success of this extraordinary family business. The labels are very beautiful, designed by Flavia Brancale, a talented Neapolitan artist and friend of the family. On the back one of the leitmotifs of this anniversary: ”Tonight I had a dream…”, which recalls the founder’s idea of creating a restaurant in a popular area like the Ferrovia that would welcome everyone like family. As Maurizio De Giovanni says, at Mimì there are no customers but only guests.
The presentation was a sign of hospitality and friendship, where all the Giugliano generations were present. Vincenzo Varchetta of Cantine Astroni, a company committed to safeguarding and enhancing the native vines on the external slopes of the crater, underlined the “gastronomic nature” of these two light, smooth wines, particularly suitable for accompanying the local and traditional cuisine of which Mimì is Railway is a real flag. And to prove it, all you had to do was taste the two novelties alongside some dishes on the menu, from croquettes to mozzarella in carrozza, to gnocchi with courgettes and ziti with lard and pecorino that Salvatore Giugliano prepared for the occasion. History, emotions and iconic recipes of the place are contained in an enjoyable book full of vintage photographs. And it doesn’t end here. The magnificent 80 years still reserve surprises, announces Ida Giugliano, who is the family’s marketing manager.
