Bergamo, at Osteria Gigianca the refined cuisine of Andrea Paleni

The repercussions of the departure of Alessia Mazzola, the soul of the Gigianca kitchen for a dozen years, had no repercussions either on the approach or on the quality of the performances. The owner Gigi Pesenti he continued with the gastronomic ideal undertaken from the beginning, the valorisation of the products of the farmers and artisans of Bergamo rather than the traditional dishes – which are there, and are executed properly, see the casoncelli and the rabbit ( with some targeted and seasonal out-of-town episodes). A philosophy that the young chef from Bremba Andrea Paleni interprets with a happy, precise and polite hand even when it uses ingredients with a strong identity. See the Bergamo sheep meat which, when processed raw into tartare, accompanies and does not overpower the taste of the artichokes; just as the acidic exuberance of the Agrì di Valtorta is well managed which with the cream create the creaming of the risotto; the Sebino perch fillets (truly local, you can see and above all you can feel it) are pleasantly combined with radishes and beetroot sauce. Also on the menu this season purple asparagus from Albenga and tarragon; potato gnocchi, morels and wild garlic; veal sweetbread, vin jaune sauce and bitter roots. Desserts include rhubarb, strawberries and frangipane cream. Thick cellar, decidedly well stocked. Two tasting menus: «Tradition» at 55 euros (4 courses) and «Identity» at 65 (6 courses). A la carte, two savory courses and dessert average 50 euros.