A warm day at the end of June was the setting for a tasting of Moscato d’Asti at the Banca del vino in Pollenzo: a journey of discovery – or rather, re-discovery – of this historic wine.
Why re-discovery? Because through the experience and wisdom of the two producers, Ignazio Giovine Of L’Armangia e Andrea Costa Of Marencothe deeper and more complex character of a wine that is often (unfairly) relegated to the role of a mere accompaniment to panettone during the holidays has emerged.
It was through their eyes and their words that the tasters were able to see, with a clarity that only human relationships and many years of dedication can evoke, the peculiarities of a wine that has so much to tell and express through the glass.
Before the tasting they took us to the territories where their companies come to life, and to their vineyards, which they care for and raise like daughters. A virtual excursion during which Ignazio and Andrea conveyed to us the importance andImpact of terroir on the organoleptic and sensorial characteristics of Moscato d’Asti. Thus, in areas with a prevalence of red clay, wines that are very unbalanced in terms of sweetness are obtained. On the other hand, more calcareous and silt-rich soils, like theirs, favor the creation of Moscato d’Asti in which the sweetness, distinctive character of this wine, is balanced by notes of flavor and acidity which create pleasant harmony in drinking and they elevate these Moscato d’Asti in a peculiar way to wines that are not only pleasant, but complex and multidimensional.
During the tasting phase, these characteristics emerged on both the nose and the palate, leading those present to live an unexpected taste experience. Worthy of note is the Moscato d’Asti 2023 Of Marenco, which gives delicate notes of apricot: the delicious acidity chases the flavor, overcoming it, while the fine bubbles dance gracefully on the palate. Equally interesting is the Moscato d’Asti 2023 of The Armandianwhich accompanies seductive pear aromas with a sugary component harmoniously balanced by flavor.
The tasting of old vintages of Moscato d’Asti
The tasting then continued in terrains that are figuratively still little explored, offering bottles from previous vintages for tasting, which were able to demonstrate an unexpected aging potential, with aromatic and gustatory evolutions not so well known for this wine if we exclude the Passiti.
Marenco’s Moscato d’Asti 2018 stands out, characterized by an intriguing and almost dichotomous nose, with notes of hydrocarbons and minerals balanced by decidedly “sweeter” hints of almond and marzipan. An aromatic profile that we find promptly on the palate. L’Armangia’s Moscato d’Asti 2017 is also truly surprising, offering citrus notes of cedar and a delicate aroma of medicinal herbs that add a balsamic dimension. The sip, however, combines notes of candied fruit with bitter hints, leaving a vaguely hoppy aftertaste.
