“Puglia’s secret side”, the hidden part of Puglia: this is the title that stands out on one of the pages of the Sundays Times, the famous English newspaper, in which the journalist Charlotte Egglestone-Johnstone, after twenty years of holiday in Puglia, wrote decided to dedicate a page to the celebration of 10 locations outside the classic tourist circuits, those that are truly taking Puglia all over the world. Much admiration for the “usual places, Alberobello (”
I never fail to bring a friendor, Monopolies (with “
afternoon entertainment located in its old streets”), or Ostuni (“for shopping and views”): and he chooses ten locations including Trani, in the description of which, defined as “pearl of Puglia” where he demonstrates having stayed and having also tasted delicacies from some of our best restaurants such as Corte in Fiore, also chosen as a b&b location, and Quintessere, one of the two starred restaurants in the city. In the piece, Ecclestone talks about enchanting cities in Puglia that are not too well known abroad (the others are Canosa, Putignano, Mola, Conversano, Altamura, Gravina, Maglie, Castro, Oria): this confirms that Trani still has a long way to go to become a destination for permanent tourism rather than hit-and-run tourism, or at least for aggressive tourism like the one seen from Monopoli downwards, where the villages, the streets, the terraces overlooking the sea are teeming with visitors all year round Worldwide. Locations that have been able to attract – over a relatively short period – not only through their undisputed beauty but also through an impeccable welcome, with the offer of efficient services, such as public toilets and car parks, excellent communication, l ‘ exaltation of its attractions (and we are not just talking about beaches given that – as mentioned – there is no continuity with the attractiveness of these towns, above all Polignano a Mare), and a swarm of artisanal commercial activities of which tourists I’m always on the hunt. Yet these very places have recently been showing more than one Achilles’ heel which the journalist underlines:
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But while these places are absolutely worth a visit, they have adapted to meet the needs of international travellers: just think of the regeneration of (now exorbitant) beach clubs, the gradual disappearance of “get what they give” starters, and the arrival of global hotel chains.”
And he adds, with a secret that he wants revealed:”
Despite all this, the old Italy, with its authentic and quiet life is still here alone, don’t tell anyone.” The description is impeccable and affectionate and we can only report it in its entirety. Obviously the prices indicated are in pounds and not euros
“Trani, The “Pearl of Puglia” is an immaculate city half an hour’s drive from the coast of Bari, and one that remains (wonderfully) untouched by the masses. It has a bit of everything: deep blue waters, an architecturally beautiful old town with noble buildings made of local stone, such as the castle built by Frederick II (£6; museopuglia.cultura.gov.it), an impressive Romanesque cathedral dating back at 1100 (cattedraletrani.it), and excellent restaurants serving fresh fish and good moscato. Try Quintessere, which offers tasting menus from £85 (quintessereristorante.it). It is a place for slow walks, to admire the colorful buildings and yachts at the marina, the shady Villa Comunale park on the sea and Piazza Teatro in the historic centre. Stay at the boutique Le Stanze di Corteinfiore, which has a renowned restaurant downstairs and modern, light-filled rooms.
Double B&B details from £110 (corteinfiore.it)
