Sacro Trattoria Agricola in Rome. Open April 17, 2024, Sacro Trattoria Agricola It immediately presents itself with a very specific personality that responds to the concept of authentic and peasant cuisineas they define it the three young creators of the project Alessandro Maggiore, Gian Marco Greganti and Fabrizio Tegazio. A clear project, we were saying, which comes after the success of the restaurant The Estate, inside the structure of the same name in Casaprota in the province of Rieti (which we had already reported to you in this article). Then the decision to open in Rome too, in Montesacro district, bringing the countryside and ancient flavors to the city. And from what we’ve seen, they’re on the right track.
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A synthesis of experiences
Sacro Trattoria Agricola is a small and informal place, just fifteen seats inside, including tables and counter, and about double that number outside (which as soon as it is completed will host customers all year round, not just during the summer). The three Romans, but above all friends and chefs, come from different paths and with many experiences gained in Italian and world cuisines: a rich and heterogeneous background that allowed them to find the meeting point first in La Tenuta and even more in Sacro.
Sacred, therefore, it is the first synthesis of their experiences and knowledge, made up of taverns, pastry shops, street food and gourmet and starred restaurants. And “first” is a must since we are talking about 30-year-olds who still have a lot to say.
Sabina raw material and a changing card
If Sacro is a tribute to the neighborhood in which they decided to open their restaurant, Trattoria Agricola makes their intentions clear. Starting from raw material that arrives almost exclusively from Sabina (from which the partners go back and forth to manage La Tenuta), thanks to butchers and farms of young local producers, such as Marco Zonetti and his Podere Le Prata in Castelnuovo di Farfa. Local products that arrive daily from Sacro and allow the chefs to offer always different dishes: the paperIndeed, it changes every month but there is no shortage out of menu based on “to the excitement of cooking”they joke.
A free logic, far from the constraints of starred cuisines. Gian Marco, in fact, was trained by Antonello Colonna at Open and by Roy Caceres at the time of Metamorfosi in Rome, but he also passed by Massimo Bottura in Modena. Environments they have shaped technique and knowledge and then made it possible to draw a defined line, but above all personal and shared with the other members of Sacro, on what arrives at the table in the new trattoria, allowing the three to propose peasant dishes and forgotten recipeswith the awareness of those who have studied and learned and then decided the path to follow, while continuing to experiment and (re)discover.
The menu
Generous dishes with great flavourlike the pork rinds with dried tomatoes and olives (10) and cod, onions, lard and wild herbs (13). Must try it pappardella with barbacoa chicken and peppers (13), where the Roman tradition of chicken and peppers meets the barbacoa method, a preparation originally from Mexico, in which cooking takes place inside a hole dug in the ground (there is also a beautiful photo on the wall that shows it ).
And among the latter we point out the abundant slice of breaded wild boar, spinach and parmesan (15). Another strong point of the kitchen is the intelligent use of vegetablefrom the wild herbscollected at the Estate, and the great use of pickles and pickles. Dishes told at the table directly by the three chefs, who alternate between the stove and the dining room.
Not a given wine listwhich mixes conventional and natural for a total of around 50 labels, to which are added Ritual Lab beers, some cocktails on tap and a small selection of gins.
Sacro Trattoria Agricola. Via dei Campi Flegrei 55, Rome. Tel. 334 3482826. Instagram
Open from Tuesday to Friday 18-01, Saturday 12.30-01 and Sunday 12.30-15.30. Closed on Mondays
