Drop after drop, the water digs.
Sometimes it erodes the rock in a singular way, giving life to unique places like the Straits of Giaredoa canyon about a kilometer long crossed by the Gordana torrent, not very far from Pontremoli, in the province of Massa.
It is located in Lunigiana, the land of the rivers of Tuscany. In this lesser-known corner of the region, a strip of land squeezed between mountains and the sea in the extreme north-west of its territory, dozens of waterways descend from the Apennines to flow towards the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The Gordana torrent it’s one of them. It originates from Mount Tecchione, in the pleasant Zeri valley, and has a course of just 15 kilometers before flowing into the waters of the Magra river not far from Pontremoli, one of the most important centers in Lunigiana.
Despite the short journey covered by its waves, the Gordana gives life to a peculiar place like the Straits of Giaredo, where the water passes through two gigantic rock blocks, digging them vertically and giving life to a deep and fascinating canyon. Crossing it means entering a sort of parallel world, where the sun filters through at times, giving vitality, colors and surprising shapes to the rock and the peculiar vegetation.
To cross it you don’t need any special skills, except knowing how to swim. Compared to other gorges of this type, in fact, the Straits of Giaredo can be explored and crossed without resorting to ropes, harnesses or nails. Good organization and the necessary caution are enough to tackle the route safely, walking in the bed of the stream and immersing yourself for a few short stretches.
Straits of Giaredo, how to get there
The town of Pontremoli, in the province of Massa, is the capital of Lunigiana. Located in a central position along the valley carved out by the Magra river, it has an elegant medieval historic center and a discreet vitality, particularly in the summer months.
It is also an excellent headquarters for the many activities proposed outdoor of the Lunigiana territory, such as the discovery of Straits of Giaredowhich are located not far away.
To reach them, take provincial road 37 following the signs for Zeri. After passing under a high highway overpass, you begin to climb. Near a hairpin bend to the right, a sign to the left indicates the entrance to the road to the Straits.
Keep right at the first crossroads and after about a kilometre, on a sharp bend to the left, the sign with directions to the Straits will indicate a dirt road that continues into the woods. Feel free to leave your means of transport in the space on the side of the road and continue from here on foot.
It takes just under half an hour to get to the mouth of the canyon, but part of the route consists of going up the bed of the stream. The current is weak and the water never reaches above your calf, however it will be necessary to put your feet in the water.
Continue along the dirt road until you reach a large clearing, where you exit the woods and turn left, entering the bed of the stream. From here, in less than half a kilometre, you will have reached the Straits.
Canyon adventure
Going up and down the Gordana inside the canyon is a magnificent adventure for the microuniverse in which you will find yourself living for about an hour and a half: rocks of fantastic and brilliant colorsan overflowing and luxuriant nature, the blue water of the stream.
Looking up you can observe the branches of the black alders and ash trees that stretch out to invade the air space above the gorge, populating the woods that grow on the two sides above the canyon.
The fauna of the Straits is characterized by amphibians such as frogs and toads, but also less common birds such as the yellow wagtail, the dipper and the heron.
The most exciting part, however, is the geological one. The peculiar rock morphology and the erosion work carried out by the water bring to light rocks of extraordinary shapes and colours. The work of the Gordana torrent allows those crossing the Straits to observe all the stratification that has taken place over the millennialike looking at a section of the planet from the Mesozoic era to today.
The route winds through the bends of the Gordana, between swimming crossings of deep pools and stretches of walking on rocks or small beaches, and ends when you come across a large boulder that divides the course of the stream into two lateral waterfalls.
The actual canyon ends there, but if you feel bold enough and capable of going up (and down) beyond the waterfalls, you will encounter a widening of the river bed and an even different and fascinating scenario. If you have a waterproof backpack, pack your picnic to come and enjoy it here, far from civilization.
The final stop on the route is near the Giaredo dam, which blocks the flow of the stream and is essentially impassable.
Returning, it is possible to rest in the sun on the small beach at the entrance to the canyon or in the various dry areas of the stream a little further downstream.
Straits of Giaredo, the necessary equipment
The route that crosses the Straits of Giaredo is accessible to anyone who knows how to swim, but you need to be foresighted and well equipped.
If you are a beginner, traveling with children or simply want to enjoy everything in maximum safety and perhaps even learn something more, the Sigeric cooperative offers guided tours upon reservation. The cost includes guide service, equipment consisting of wetsuit, helmet and life jacket, insurance.
If you consider yourself expert enough to be able to tackle the canyon alone, don’t forget to equip yourself accordingly: technical sandals closed on the heel or, even better, sneakers with a sole that provides a minimum of grip; a thermal shirt or a surf type wetsuitgiven that inside the canyon there is almost no sun shining, and the water is very cold.
It is good practice to bring a helmet, given the morphological characteristics of the canyon. Visit the canyon if possible in company and always in good weather: rain can lead to the very dangerous phenomenon of flash flooding and make visiting the Straits a terrible and dangerous experience.
Having taken the necessary precautions, dive into the parallel world that awaits you inside the canyon.
