The German student queuing at the counter is looking for something sweet to eat immediately: it’s mid-morning and the baker offers a donut, to be filled on the spot with chocolate, cream or jam. Next is a family man, who orders the usual bag of bread but recommends that it be clear, «because my son doesn’t like it overcooked and last time he complained». And then a tourist passing through, who would like to make a load of fresh pasta to take home and in the end opts for a pack of ravioli. Normal bakery dynamics, but the Fornaio Bakery in viale Sicilia, in Sassari, has a peculiarity: it specializes in foods for intolerant people and everything that comes out of its oven is strictly gluten-free, but also contains very low percentages of lactose and nickel. The baker is called Tonino Cau, he is 30 years old and has dived into this adventure since September 2022. Not without knowing how to swim: «I started several years ago as an employee in a business that unfortunately closed its doors – he says -. At that point, having attended the courses and obtained the necessary qualifications, I decided to start my own business. Obviously I have the ASL certification and I am part of the Italian Celiac Association circuit. We are only at the beginning, but the more time passes, the more I am convinced that I have made the right choice.”
Tonino Cau’s winning idea was to reproduce an old-fashioned bread oven, designed exclusively for intolerant people. It is no coincidence that you can find everything. «I work all day long, knead and bake practically all day – he explains -. Those who come here know they will find freshly made products, not simple packages of “gluten free” food. I make bread and pizzas several times a day, but every day I prepare cannoli, croissants, muffins, tarts, pastries. I also work to order, and therefore for me it is not a problem to prepare other types of desserts, such as cakes and seadas.”
According to the young baker from Sassari, the future is the “fresh of the day” and he continues his business on this basis. With fair satisfaction. «This is the only specialized place for intolerant people in Sassari and in the whole of northern Sardinia there is only one other gluten-free place, in Macomer. Customers naturally come not only from Monte Rosello, but now from all the city districts. Somehow I have become a point of reference and I am growing. What continues to perplex me is the fact that despite an enormous number of people with celiac disease or those intolerant to some foods, in Sardinia there is still little awareness and little culture: this sector, due to the importance it has, is much less rewarded compared to others. Among other things, in Sassari, according to my perception, there are more lactose intolerants than celiacs.”
The products cost more, it’s true, but a kilo of gluten free flour costs 8 euros, therefore almost 10 times the price of normal 00 flour. «I use a base of rice, low in corn, tapioca, teff, buckwheat. And clearly water, oil, fresh brewer’s yeast. Upon request, I also happened to use deglutinated wheat starch. The number of people who have a food intolerance is growing more and more – concludes Tonino Cau – and involves all age groups. From children born like this, to the elderly who have developed intolerances over the years due to the mixtures and improvers present in many packaged foods.”
