Being able to trace the cotton production chain is not easy. This was demonstrated by an investigation by the British NGO Earthsight. At the center of the latter, carried out for 1 year before proceeding with publication, the sustainable cotton also exploited for Zara and H&M products.
The truth about sustainable cotton
In the world of fast fashion, without a doubt Zara and H&M represent some of the most important and influential names. For years highlight the use of ethical cotton and sustainable but, according to this recent survey, i territories in Brazil in which cultivation takes place would be illegally deforested.
A delicate and complex process of analysis and research led to this in-depth document. Inside it are satellite images and shipping records, as well as sentences from Brazilian courts and beyond.
Going into detail, the two companies they would grow cotton in the Cerrado. This is a well-known portion of Brazilian territory. Over the years, however, its biodiversity has become the second reason why we often talk about this territory. The first is the acquisition of large portions of land, in order to proceed with industrial exploitation.
It is common to speak of “land grabbing” in some cases, since the purchase can sometimes feel forced. The investigation does not demonstrate a direct sales relationship of cotton to the two large groups. In fact, what is cultivated reaches manufacturing companies in Asia. This is where the processing and transformation take place. Only later does the resale proceed to H&M and Inditex, i.e. the group in control of Zara and not only, but also of Bershka and Pull&Bear.
Who grows and how
The investigation is obviously not all-encompassing. Earthsight focused on one type of cotton in particular, the kind grown by SLC Agricola and from Horita Group. The choice easily fell on them, since these are some of the largest agricultural enterprises in the country.
Specifically, 816 thousand tons of cotton grown in the Cerrado were traced. From 2014 to 2023, we read, everything was resold to 8 Asian companies. Their processing then generated 250 million productsaimed at the world of fast fashion.
In recent years the Cerrado has been subject to heavy deforestation. This is to ensure greater space for both livestock farming and the cultivation of cotton and soybeans. In this respect, 2023 was a terrible year, with the 43% more land deforested than in 2022or 7,800 square km.
At the basis of this process of territorial appropriation, the NGO reports, there would be populations removed from their homes, often with intimidation and violence by SLC Agricola and Horita Group.
The Better Cotton certification
The sustainable cotton of Zara and H&M brand products boasts a Better Cotton certification (BC). This is an NGO that aims to reduce the environmental impact of cotton production and, at the same time, is committed to improving workers’ conditions.
The real crux of the matter is right here. Most large companies turn to BC to obtain a guarantee of the use of sustainable cotton, i.e. grown in an ethical manner. The problem is that the monitoring system of this NGO does not guarantee that the finished product does not present a mix or substitutionalong the supply chain, with conventional and, therefore, anything but ethical materials.
In this scenario, the big fast fashion brands represent the last link in the chain. In fact, the investigation revealed doubts about Better Cottonmainly, and therefore on the validity of its guarantee mark.
Inditex has already released a statement on the matter, claiming to take the allegations against BC very seriously. It has in fact pushed the NGO to take the necessary measures to guarantee a certification that is truly reliable. In this scenario, drastic decisions and, in fact, a hierarchical change in this specific sector cannot be ruled out. If today everyone or almost everyone relies on BC, this does not necessarily represent the solution adopted in the near future.
On the legislative front, the European Union has new laws in the pipeline to ban the import of products linked to deforestation. However, it will be necessary to wait until the end of 2024 for it to come into force.
Tags: Sustainable cotton Zara center investigation doubts certification
