This place offers the possibility of discovering the area thanks to excursions, experiencing the environment in relaxation or reaching the “recesses” for a dip in the clear water
“The only rule of travel is: don’t go back the way you left. Come back different.” It’s always been my motto. Those who love discovering places must absolutely distract themselves by observing, without any hesitation. Sicily, in this regard, is full of wonders to touch at least once in a lifetime.
Among these, it is inevitable the Zingaro Reserve.
How many times do we stop to admire the photos published online? Read about the most important coves? Why not plan a visit (including the Manna, Intreccio, Rural Civilization and Marine Activities museums) that will remain engraved in your memories? It is important, right from the start, to choose “exactly” what to visit.
The area – large – offers the possibility of discovering the area thanks to excursions, experiencing the environment in relaxation or reaching the “recesses” for a dip in the pristine water.
A premise like others, personal. Now begins the normal story of a hiking enthusiast who experienced the thrill – in symbiosis with nature – of walking the high and coastal path.
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There are two entrances to reach the reserve: north side from San Vito lo Capo and south, from Scopello (Castellammare del Golfo). Both show their strong “points” with Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo (North) and Capreria (South).
Finally the walk begins, hidden in the “initial” silence full of waiting and hope. You enter one of the very few stretches where the coastal road is missing.
No means can hinder the “primary” force of nature which has triumphed over the inability of man and the concrete idea. It was inhabited by a family until 1960 (house used as the Weaving Museum), while the first stones for the construction of the Scopello-San Vito coastal road were laid in 1976.
Instead, way back in 1980, around 3000 people they occupied the path (environmental march) in anger. The objective was to raise awareness of the places by the Sicily Region to avoid complete disappearance.
With the regional law of 98/1981, the first Sicilian reserve was officially established, managed by the Regional State Forestry Company. A historic victory to be safeguarded in memory and remembrance of the protests. When tackling medium-long excursions it is important to prepare. It’s not just a physical aspect.
The poles, the boots, a backpack, the drinks and those details that allow a certain tranquility. Address the High Path it is an instinctive test of strength. It represents the most challenging route of the three proposed. From the Visitor Center the road rises dramatically. Step by step, the gaze detaches itself from the intense blue of the sea to pay homage to the rich and thick Mediterranean scrub. “Encounters” with nature are special.
The scents of sweet broom and areas of prairie and ampelodesma stand out. The pace must follow its course, moderate, to avoid running into the so-called “overspeeds” (in cycling jargon). There are many kilometers to cover – and from the Marcato della Mennola and Sterna – you turn towards the backdrop of the Monte Scardina forest.
On hot days you need to sip gently to avoid dehydration. These are small “aspects” that should not be underestimated. The rugged peaks of Mount Wolf Pass (868 m.), Monte Speziale (914 m.) e Mount Scardina (680 m) are the peaks to be conquered with ardor and sacrifice. Good will is rewarded by the fantastic landscapes of holm oaks and Aleppo pines. Breathing is labored, slow, affected by difficulties. The “usual” steps that are part of the game.
Yet, many strange sounds take us by surprise. They could come from one of 39 species of breeding birds! The reserve is “full” of hawks, buzzards, eagles and seagulls with strange names. Even the bushes hide a treasure to be observed carefully “with the permission” of the owners of the place themselves.
Rabbits, foxes, weasels, hedgehogs, porcupines, oak mice and various bats maintain a certain distance from man. The types of reptiles and insects that “decorate” the environments deserve a mention.
It is the rich fauna that has taken root in the reserve, tiptoeing and over time. They have found their habitats from which they would not like to escape. Tiredness has decided to run its “course” and makes everything so nebulous. The horizons are “tinged” with desert oases. Heavy moments try to move consciences, even the good ones.
Finally the time has come to take a break by finding a place under a tree, in the middle of the dwarf palms (undisputed symbol of the entire reserve).
The rest phase is the one that transmits positive “energy”. In the meantime it is possible to delve deeper into the “state” of the findings. They are limestone with small karst depressions and in the rainy season they form a small whirlpool. The minutes pass inexorably.
The descent “can” in some cases have negative repercussions. Maintaining caution is one of the best qualities of hikers.
The routes (three) – thanks to some detours – give the possibility of changing objectives. The “half” coast and coastal paths have different characteristics compared to the first. In addition to the difficulties related to altitudes, the protagonists and scenarios have “shapes” and “ideas” to discover. The first is approximately 8.5 km long. It leads straight to Contrada Sughero and Borgo Cusenza.
It makes its way rural history (it is possible to bivouack with prior authorisation). They are territories where farmers and shepherds lived with enormous sacrifice. The itinerary winds through climbs and descents up to a maximum height of 367 metres. An intense “hump”, we would say in Sicilian, in the midst of around 670 infrageneric plant taxa.
It becomes impossible to list the quantity of plants present, the risk of remaining trapped in naturalistic beauty imposes a certain severity and reflective spirit.
The last path, the most popular one, is the coastal one. Once through the tunnel (an old project forming part of the never-finished coastal road), it pushes the visitor to carefully observe every single space present.
The sea is just a snap of the fingers away. She grabs her thoughts and drags them with her towards the waters once she reaches the coves (from the aforementioned Tonnarella and Capreria, the delicate play of the pebbles has created the splendid coves of Marinella, Berretta, della Disa and del Varo).
They are “dispersed” in the seven km that separate the two entrances (North and South). Contact with the sea purifies and distracts from everyday problems. The memories of the efforts are part of the past, thousands of steps shattered in the space of a few seconds. Rightly so! Describing the entire reserve in the best possible way becomes a difficult task, even too difficult.
Reading is boring. Better to experience – directly – the lack of anthropization of the territory. The wild side protects the Gypsy from human evils.
Time has worn away the ancient “Cetaria” described by the Greeks for its abundance of tuna. Today, we can defend it with small actions: respect and protection.
