Romagna, journey on the roads of ragù (and not only)

From the wet coasts of the Riviera to the steep coasts of the Apennines, from the sand to the gullies, Romagna can be explored on the road in spring. The route is punctuated by the valleys that cross it and connect the hinterland to the sea, designed by rivers that cut Romagna into many different naturalistic and gastronomic areas, which are recognized in unique cultural traits and dimensions capable of expressing an original diversity. Whether it is a panoramic road, a path in the woods, a dirt road or a cycle path, the best way to travel through Romagna is to follow the course of a river, towards the sea or up the hills, and choose one of the many valleys to discover its flavors and typical features, nature and history.

Narrow valleys running – each in its own way and at its own pace – among lush vegetation, where in the midst of greenery, small villages, castles, summer festivals, shops and artisan workshops, bar-trattorias and village clubs stand out. One valley leads to another, starting with that of Marecchia, wild and sweet, it is the valley of castles overlooking Rimini and the Riviera. The nerve center (and gastronomic center) of the valley is Santarcangelo di Romagna, where historic venues and new proposals enliven the season full of original events that mix art, theatre, music and cuisine. An idea of ​​the creative freedom of this village can be found in Santabago, a recreational and gastronomic association where people go to dine and visit exhibitions.

And while the umbrellas reopen on the Riviera and bathing establishments, the season always begins with some new establishment to try (Matteo and Salvatore Aloe have arrived in Rimini with Berberè and the Lingua restaurant has recently opened where chef Paolo Bissaro is at the stove), the challenge of the summer which arrives it will be like using the blue crab in the kitchen (putting it inside the piadina?). But it is the hinterland that blooms at its best this season: the Romagna spring tastes of fresh pasta, cheeses and wild herbs. It is the season of stridoli, very green and tasty, they are called this because if you rub them they squeak, they are collected in the fields and along the ditches and are eaten as a filling for tortelli, in the sauce of tagliatelle, in omelettes or as a side dish. In Galeata, in the Bidente valley, the stridoli are the protagonists of a festival held on April 28th. Also along the Bidente, in Santa Sofia, snacks are based on tortello alla lastra, which in another valley, in Tredozio, is called bartolaccio and is filled with potatoes, bacon and cheese. Along the Rabbi valley, you pass Predappio to get to Premilcuore, and stop for lunch or dinner at the Osteria Bartonga (in front of the Rocca delle Caminate), one of the many new hillside openings. New, but with a retro flavor, as befits these places.
The higher you climb, the more the villages give way to villages and districts, inhabited by people from the forest, those who take care of the chestnut groves, those who are woodcutters, those who open their farmhouse to tourists, those who work smartworking from a stone house , innovators of the mountains, producers of wine, cheese or vegetables, those who have chosen to stay away from the chaos and those who have never moved from here.

At the table: passatelli, but also tagliatelle and cappelletti, are the fil rouge (rouge, because of the ragù) that unites every valley but it is especially along the Lamone that the spoja gross is eaten, a simple and delicious first course of fresh pasta. This is the valley that touches the Vena del Gesso Romagnola, one of the seven geological sites between Emilia and Romagna, included last autumn by UNESCO in the list of natural world heritage sites. It is the sixth Italian natural site on that list, second in Romagna after the old beech forests of the Casentinesi Forest Park. A spectacle of gray and silver colored rocks that were formed over the millennia following the evaporation of the sea water that covered them and the concomitant concentration of mineral salts including, indeed, gypsum. A scenic route, the Via del Gesso, has recently been inaugurated here, 70 kilometres, to be completed in three days and which goes from Imola to Faenza. And it is here that the Moretto artichoke grows, the first fruits of April, with a delicate flavor and pungent appearance. In Brisighella, it is celebrated with a festival on 28 April and 5 May. Romagna, from coast to coast, is waiting to be explored.

Here are the 11 places to try

Agrofficina
Piazza Malatesta, 21G – Rimini
A rich choice of vegetarian and vegan dishes prepared with ingredients from the family farm or zero km. In the center of Rimini at the foot of Castel Sismondo.

Santabago
Contrada dei Fabbri, 11 – Santarcangelo di Romagna (RN)
Private club (membership required), where art, culture, music, events and food coexist creatively and in an ever new way.

Noble House
Contrada dei Nobili, 12 – Santarcangelo di Romagna (RN)
Seafood tavern, Adriatic fish as the protagonist of a menu that changes depending on the market and the season. Local wines.

Small Osteria Tèra
Via Cavour, 29 – Sogliano al Rubicone (FC)
Cold cuts, cheeses (here we are in the land of Fossa cheese) and other typical dishes of a traditional Romagna tavern, such as fresh pasta with ragù.

The Bell Ringer
Via Borgo Pianetto, 24 – Galeata (FC)
Historic address, well known by lovers of Romagna cuisine, always a good reason to stop in Pianetto di Galeata.

Agrosteria at Villa Monty Banks
Via Sorrivoli, 601 – Cesena (FC)
From April 14th and every spring Sunday, the restaurant is also open for brunch. An original menu inspired by the first fruits of the garden and the flavors of Romagna.

At the Old Convent
Via Roma, 7 – Portico di Romagna (FC)
In the internal courtyard overlooking the river, you eat in the quiet of nature and the flavors are elegant but at the same time comfortable and familiar. Great quality.

The Poderone
Via Poderone, 64 – Santa Sofia (FC)
Ideal for a Sunday lunch, or as a stopover on a walk in Campigna (you can even sleep), the cuisine is home-made and convivial, with home-grown raw materials.

Osteria Bartonga
Strada Rocca delle Caminate, 38 – Meldola (FC)
In a strategic position for a road trip in Romagna, it offers traditional local cuisine, with particular attention (and passion) for fresh pasta.

The Cabin
Via Naviglio, 25/c – Faenza (RA)
A shop selling delicatessen products with a tavern behind it: the unmistakable style of provincial Romagna restaurants. Exceptional wine selection, simple and effective cuisine.

Guercinoro tavern
Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, 7 – Brisighella (RA)
Under the historic (and much photographed) Via Degli Asini and inside what was an ancient stable, a small place with few seats but lots of quality: Romagna dishes, wines from the surrounding hills.

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