Maybe you ate it without knowing anything about it. Yes, because “l’tumin eletric” it is a great classic of the appetizers from the Piedmontese peasant tradition, protagonist of the trays served on the table in the piole or, a little further back in time, among the snacks of the snack sinoira, the late afternoon snack of the mid-nineteenth century farmer, with cheese, salami, perhaps an omelette, a bit of seasonal fruit and a glass of wine. At the end of the 19th century, even bourgeois and nobles offered sinoire snacks, especially in the summer, in their villas in the countryside, while in the last century it became a topical moment, precisely, in the piole: green or electric tomini with chilli pepper, peppers, boiled eggs, Russian salad, giardiniera and veal with tuna sauce, pickled tench and courgettes… (a bit like the evening equivalent of sdijunino alla Giorgione).
It is called electric because it lights the fire in the mouth, given the generous dose of chili pepper. The preparation, however, is very simple: exactly as happens with the green or red bathnetto, it is an express sauce based on oil and chilli pepper (“spagnolin” in dialect) used to season the typical Piedmont tomini, available fresh (those of this recipe), dry or seasoned. Called “canavesani”, they are sold in “rolls”. Here are the trattorias in Turin where you can find them in this characteristic version.
The electric tomino, the unknown specialty of Piedmontese piole. What it is and where to eat it in Turin
Osteria Antiche Sere
A treasure chest where it is kept the most authentic gastronomic tradition in an old and lived-in context, but always well-kept and welcoming. This is Antiche Sere, a place where you can immerse yourself in the most sincere flavors of Piedmontese classics: anchovies, baked peppers, electric tambours, agnolotti with roast sauce, a veal with tuna sauce cooked to perfection, with an excellent sauce. The cellar is not impressive, but there are the right references for this menu offered at honest prices. The service is punctual and friendly.
Osteria Antiche Sere – via Cenischia, 9 – 011 3854347 – Facebook
Barbagusto
Small place with a few tables in a quiet block, away from the chaos of the nightlife, which celebrated its 11th anniversary in March. Halfway between the tavern and the typical Turin piola, you can stop by even just for a glass of wine and a snack, to be enjoyed perched on a stool in an atmosphere of familiarity, courtesy and informality. In fact, the appetizers are also available in tapas versions and almost all dishes can be ordered in half portions. Piedmontese tradition reigns supreme (Russian salad, back to the baths and green anchovies, Bra sausage, Fassona ham) but there is nothing else missing according to inspiration and season. Every first Sunday of the month there is a “Sunday lunch” (to be booked).
Barbagusto – via Belfiore, 36 – 011 2760233 – Instagram
The Knight
It has existed since 1958 and has always been managed by the same family, the Lazzeri. The founder, Nello, was originally an ice cream maker in Rome then moved to the North and gave life to what has become an institution over the years. Il Cavaliere specializes in pan pizza and farinata (both made with selected ingredients), but in the rich buffet of appetizers, super traditional, alongside Russian salad, omelettes and pickled anchovies there is no shortage of tomini, both in green sauce and electric.
Il Cavaliere – c.so Vercelli, 79 – 011 852657 – pizzeriailcavalieretorino.it
Antica Trattoria Con Calma
In the middle of the greenery of the first hill, just outside the centre, the place welcomes you with simplicity and warmth, offering all the prerogatives of eating in the countryside and what’s more at a “slow” pace: in the summer under a pergola, in the winter among antique furniture and a fireplace, for the rest of the year inside a very bright veranda. The gastronomic offer moves on the tradition/creativity track and there are always options for vegetarians and celiacs: vitello with tuna sauce, marinated electric tomino, green anchovies, agnolotti with three roasts, veal stew with Nebbiolo, dishes based on mushrooms and truffles in season. To close, desserts, ice creams and “maison” sorbets.
Antica Trattoria Con Calma – Cartman municipal road, 59 – 011 8980229 – concalma.it
Decorators and Painters
Among the starters there is the trio of Rivarolo tomini with three bagnetti: in addition to the classic green one and the more creative one with char roe and yellow peppers, there is also the red one with pepper sauce. In this case less electric than the traditional version, i.e. not spicy, but equally noteworthy. We are in a super typical tavern which is part of a larger project with a social background (there is also a solidarity purchasing group), born almost a century ago from the merger of two mutual aid societies. It is also worth a stop for the beautiful garden with the characteristic vine pergola (the “topia”) and for the related initiatives.
Decorators and Painters – via Francesco Lanfranchi, 28 – 011 8190672 – decoratorieimbianchini.it
Osteria Le Putrelle
For a quarter of a century it has been a safe place to eat well at low cost. Born as a winery by Giovanni Foresto, in San Salvario, it has become a genuine and convivial trattoria (or rather piola) with a Piedmontese cuisine that does not disdain some incursions from the South. The Savoy cornerstones are all there, however: Russian salad, veal with tuna sauce, raw meat platter, three-meat agnolotti, and obviously tomini, al verde or to “bagnet rus” spicy. In “cit” (small) or “gros” (large) portions.
Osteria Le Putrelle – via T. Valperga Caluso, 11 – 011 6599630 – leputrelle.it
Coffee-Wines Emilio Ranzini
A place of worship in the city, which has seen everyone pass by and continues to welcome every generation in a skimpy room with counter, blackboard, a few tables, and the summer courtyard. Open from 9.30am to dinner time, it is popular for a glass of red wine, a butter and anchovy sandwich but also, at lunch, for the sinoira snack. At that time we feed ourselves with green anchovies, tomini, electric and otherwise, sausage, tongue, veal with tuna sauce, hard-boiled eggs, “friciulin”.
Coffee-Wines Emilio Ranzini – via Porta Palatina, 9G – 011 7650477 – Facebook
Come on Saletta
Old-fashioned family environment, courteous and accurate service, forty years of glorious business inaugurated on 13 December 1983 always under the same family management. The dishes, simple and genuine, are classic Piedmontese ones, e.g in the carnet of typical appetizers there is no shortage of tomini with bagnetti, as well as green anchovies, veal with tuna sauce and Russian salad. We proceed with homemade pasta, from tagliatelle to gnocchi, seasoned for example with Castelmagno. Lightweight account.
Come on Saletta – via Belfiore, 37 – 011 6687867 – Facebook
